Top 10 2005 Buick LaCrosse Questions & Answers

The bright light fitting is the same as the dim so take it apart fist to see how the cover screws off/on and the light comes out. Both the cover and the bulb are removed by a standard twist to the counterclockwise and replaced by a twist to the clockwise. Now to the dim light. You have to release the entire light assembly before you can remove the screw-on cover to reach the light. On the rear edge of the light unit closest to the engine is a white locking tab. Pull that tab up just to the point where it releases…pull too far and it locks again. Next, locate the other locking bracket which is a metal bracket in the center-rear of the light assembly. This bracket is held down by a screw. Remove the screw with a 10mm wrench. Lift the bracket just like you did the white bracket. You should now be able to pull (or pry) the entire light unit forward a little. Depending on the size of your hands this might be enough. If not, then you need to release the plastic bumper assembly to give you a little more space. This is done by removing two expansion locking pins, one that holds the little plastic strip down between the bright and dim lights and one that is located inside a rubber bumper on the engine side of the light unit. To remove these locking pins, pull or pry up the little tab in the center of the pin just like you were pulling a nail by the head. That should give you a little more space.

There is a bulletin for this fix.The bulletin number is 05-01-39-001A.This pertains to the blower motor staying on after key is shut off.What you will have to do is replace the blower motor resistor module and install a capacitor in the wiring.Part number is 25073556 for the capacitor.The blower motor is on the right side under the dash.Just remove the insulator panel and you should be able to see it if you look up into the dash.Or turn it on and listen for the blower motor.Disconnect the connector to the blower motor control module.Find cavity a and c.Cavity a is negative and cavity c is positive.C is red and A is black.Splice the positive lead of the capacitor to the red wire and the negative to the black wire.You should use splice sleeves and solder the wire on.Hope this helps.Good luck.

The procedure to replace head light assembly on buick lacrosse is as follows:--- 1)To remove and replace the headlight assembly you will need to remove 1 retaining bolt on the top of the headlamp assembly and 2 sliding retainers at the rear. 2) The carefully Pull up the retainers and that will release the headlight assembly and allow you to pull it out the front. 3) When installing the new headlight assembly make sure you have it lined up correctly before trying to install the retainers, don't force them it may get cracked . 4) Both the cover and the bulb are removed by a standard twist to the counterclockwise and replaced by a twist to the clockwise. 5) Now to the dim light. You have to release the entire light assembly before you can remove the screw-on cover to reach the light. 6) On the rear edge of the light unit closest to the engine is a white locking tab. Pull that tab up just to the point where it releases…pull too far and it locks again. 7) Next, locate the other locking bracket which is a metal bracket in the center-rear of the light assembly. This bracket is held down by a screw. 8) Remove the screw with a 10mm wrench. Lift the bracket just like you did the white bracket. You should now be able to pull (or pry) the entire light unit forward a little. Depending on the size of your hands this might be enough. Note:-- The turn signal is part of the headlight assembly on your 2005 Buick LaCross. 9) To replace the headlight bulb you need to remove the front bumper cover. 10)To release the plastic bumper assembly to give you a little more space. This is done by removing two expansion locking pins, one that holds the little plastic strip down between the bright and dim lights and one that is located inside a rubber bumper on the engine side of the light unit. 11)To remove these locking pins, pull or pry up the little tab in the center of the pin. Thanks.

I just changed the low beam bulb in a '05 Buick LaCrosse and found it really rather easy after researching it. I found no reason to remove the grill and the bumper cover, BUT you do have to remove the top 4 fastners that hold the grill assy to the radiator support, then you can work the headlight assy forward enough to work it out of the socket and turn it down so you can get to the bulb pockets on the back side. NO NEED to remove it all, just loosen it and gentley pry things forward enough to get the light assy out. ALSO> My supplier said his Wagner lighting book called for a 9006 bulb, but the car I worked took a H11. About 4x the money over a plain ol 9006 bulb but it might save someone picking up the wrong bulb. I hope this helps someone else out....Best of luck to you all

Go to this link on youtube. It worked for me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcL_0TWeZJY&feature=related

It sounds like the heater control valve may be stuck. This valve allows heated water from the engine to pass through the heater core which in turn heats the inside of your car. If this valve is stuck, only a small portion of heated water will pass through. If this is the case, you should have the control valve replace.

You should be able to find it by following the heater hoses coming from the radiator leading back to the firewall. These hoses will about 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch in diameter so you shouldn't get them confused with the normal radiator hoses.

You can probably purchase a new valve at an auto parts store but I'm sure the dealer will have one.

If that's not the problem, it could be that the core itself is clogged up. That's a little more expensive and more of a pain to replace. if this is helpful please dont forget to give rateing thank you

• Hello, I'm Tony and thank you for the opportunity to assist you. You have two choices on your vehicle for belt drives. You can go off of the Vin or more simply weather or not you have a super charger on your vehicle as well. The super charger has two belts. So you either have one belt which is the first diagram or two belts which is the second diagram.

• Below is the diagram for the serpentine belt. It comes off by simply putting a wrench or long ratchet or belt tool on the bolt indicated and releasing the tention off the belt that way.

• Below is the diagram for the engine with the super charger as well.

• If you have any comments or questions please feel free to ask right here. If you are satisfied with my work please feel free rate this solution and leave a comment for others to know of my quality work.

I own a 2007 Buick Lacrosse, but I imported it to Paraguay, South America. Now I bought a new Engine Start Keyless Entry Remote from Amazon, but here we do not have any GM dealer to program the unit.
I really need help to program the keyless remote control, I will appreciate very much your help.

3.6L V6 Buick Lacrosse (Allure) CXS, 2006: The usual place for the power steering pressure hose to leak copious amounts of fluid is at the pump-end fitting. Don't bother trying to replace the teflon seal on the outside of it in an attempt to stop the leak. This fitting has a hidden internal seal that is designed to allow the metal part of the hose to float in the fitting even after the fitting is properly tightened. The only lasting repair is to replace the hose. On the 3.6 engine, this job is more difficult than average because the hose is a long multi-segment affair that wraps all around the subframe. Some pro shops are even hesitant to take it on, possibly because of poor GM instructions. It takes about 3 hours of labor, unless you have done it before. GM's removal and installation instructions are misleading and confusing; some might say just plain erroneous. They presume a GM hose is being installed, which apparently is not like the original hose, and that requires additional parts and effort. The solution is to install an aftermarket hose such as Edelmann PN 92226; the brand you choose really does not matter, they are all the same. The GM procedure also calls for removing motor mount bolts and lifting the engine. I found that to be unnecessary.

Remove the right side wheel and splash shield, which is held on by three plastic push pins. Undo the two steering rack heat shield snaps, using needle nose pliers to reach into the small space, and remove the shield . Take lots of pictures to remind yourself how the hose is routed around the subframe. You may ask yourself how it can possibly be removed; I know I did. Disconnect both ends of the hose. The pump end is best reached with a stubby length 18mm wrench. Despite appearing to be tight in there, the rack end is easy to loosen with a regular 18 mm open end wrench. The 18mm fitting you want to loosen is the one closest to the firewall. Very important: unhook and remove all of the plastic clips than hold the hose assembly in place, unhook the clips that retain a wire bundle to the assembly, and slide off all of the protective sheathings and cushion rings. From underneath, pull the pump end of the hose down under the subframe, and let it hang there. This will allow the metal sections of the hose to start to come away from the subframe rails. Begin to work the rack end of the hose outward toward the wheel well; it is tight in there, the end of the hose has a convoluted metal section, and and at first it may seem impossible to get that past the exhaust down pipe and out using the small space between the rack and the engine block, with the metal section of the return hose also getting in your way. Don't give up; it just takes patience. As the hose assembly comes out into the wheel well, you will be able to gradually turn the metal mid-section of the hose and feed it under the A/C compressor. You are basically turning the whole hose assembly counterclockwise (as viewed from above) in a series of steps until it is out. Eventually, with careful twisting and turning, it will come out. The key is to use the clear space under the A/C compressor and forward to the radiator to maneuver it. With the old hose on the floor under the car, study how it is laid out, and what sections lay along what parts of the subframe. Put the new hose on the floor, and orient it exactly the same. Follow the instructions that came with the new hose to install the included o-ring on the flare fitting at the rack end. I like to shrink a piece of heat-shrink tubing onto the metal flare to protect the o-ring from cuts as it's stretch over it. Once the o-ring is in place, pull the heat-shrink off and discard it. Protect the hose fittings with caps or tape to keep them clean while feeding the hose into position. Starting at the rack end fitting, begin feeding the hose: From under the car, find the gap that's underneath the A/C compressor, between the front of the engine block and the front aluminum subframe cross rail. Feed the hose out toward the wheel well through that gap. Once you get the convoluted metal end piece through there, you can start to turn and maneuver the hose assembly clockwise. Going a little at the time, it can be worked into place, basically following the reverse of the removal. Maybe it's learning curve, but for me the new one went in better than the old once came out. Verify the the o-ring is still on the rack-end fitting, lube it with ATF, and hand start the threads into the rack until you are sure it is threading in properly, and it is not cross-threaded. Tighten it to no more that 20 lb-ft. The pump end fitting already has a white teflon seal on the outside, so all you need to do is lube it, start the threads by hand, and tighten it securely. . I hope this is write-up is helpful. Good luck with the repair!

it is likely the sensor but I would test it before you replace it. you will need to check the resistance on the wires coming off the sensor you will also need to know what the right resistance is.