Top 20 2003 BMW 330 Questions & Answers

The fact that you were able to repeatedly restart the engine after it shut down indicates that the battery was not totally dead and therefore the alternator is most likely to be OK. First thing I would do is take take it to have the diagnostic trouble codes read (Autozone used to do this sort of thing for free)

the overhauler of the engine didn't finish job. pcm probably.

Power steering systems are usually either electric or hydraulic, is there a puddle of oily stuff under the car or signs of it around the engine bay? Look for a cap under the bonnet (hood) with a steering wheel symbol on and check the fluid level, if topping it up fixes it then check carefully for leaks. If you can't find either of these check for a blown fuse or loose conection.

Hi vladi,P0700 means that Transmission Control System (MIL Request), Diagnostic Trouble Code Table maybe can help you .

No fuel or No sparks... Can you hear the electric fuel pump run when you start over? If not, check if the pump recieves power or if filter/hoses are clogged. Jump power directly to the fuel pump to test the circuit and pump...

Hello, Check the coldstart sensor/valve. Check the injectors, one or more are maybe leaking...

It is hard to be sure without checking, BMW changed from the M52B28 engine to the M52B28TU engine around that time. Enter the last 7 numbers of the VIN here to verify: http://www.bimmer.workFind out more about the M52 engines here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M52I recommend that you pursue your BMW questions at Bimmerforums.com. It's free and has been a fantastic resource for me over the years. Bimmerfest.com is also free and another excellent BMW resource.

im an automotive electronic rebuilder and this sounds like a possible engine computer issue to me... Sounds like something is losing its connection integrity when it gets warm. More info would be good. Also, id check all electrical connections (plugs and pins) in relevant areas for corrosion/oxidation. its more common then one might think

first guess is that you did not get all of the wires place in the correct order when you reconnected them. Second guess is that the 12 volt wire going to one of the coils is not making contact...check for good connections at all of the coils... last....and I hope not this one, one of your new coils is bad. Try substitution of coils, one at a time to see if that restore power....

Most likely it is because you are low on refrigerant. Most vehicles have a pressure sensor that stops the A/C clutch from engaging when the 134-a is low. I would take this one to a service shop if you are not familiar with Air Conditioners. It may seem costly but could save you a lot of money if you were to mess things up.

Hello. Sounds like the A/C unit needs fixing. The best thing to do is, go to your mechanic and tell him the problem. A/C's for cars can be a big problem if not fixed right. Good Look.

I would seek this advice from a radio fitting specialist as fitting anything into a car's electronics can cause big problems . There are many people who contact us with complaints after DIY radios and each one relates to incompatibility with the CPU in the car.

sounds like ignition module fuse

It may not be the model with a satellite feature. Many times there is an "A" and "B" style radio in the same model number. Check your manual

The Boot weather stripping will need to be replaced.

check the fusible ling (ING) next to the battery . check battery terminals are shiny clean and tight . Have a load test done on the battery to check for bad cell

I don't always follow my rule so do I a say and not as I do. ANYTIME you work with electrical in automobiles disconnect the battery first. That being said I would first try the easy thing. Disconnect the negative lead of the battery for about a minute and then reconnect. This will reset everything. If once that happens and you still do not see your dash warning lights then check the fuses that apply. If there was any type of shorting while changing the lights then it could have easily blown a fuse. If that is not the case then you are in a bit deeper and would look into the body computer. Good luck

your catalytic converter is likely dying. Doesn't affect the car but you will probably fail your next emisssions inspection.

You will need to have the computer scanned for codes first and go from there.

To check your statement have the battery load tested to check for a bad cell and if it works when fully charged then you will be aware to ensure that the battery is vital for safe steering.