20 Most Recent 2003 BMW 330 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

First,call a shop or dealer to make sure the proper plug is on the proper coil location,unless you are POSITIVE that they have not been messed with recently.Then Check the spark plug wires.Also,push down on the plug wires and trace them back to where they originate(coil pack),and push down on them to ensure tight fit.If it's still bad,check the plug wires.Remove them from the plugs and make sure they are not broken.If it is a 4 cylinder,the coil pack may operate those 2 cylinders on one side and 1+4 on the other.If you do anything such as replacing the coil pack,make diagrams of the wire's traced out locations from spark plugs to coils.If you get one wrong,it will be worse.If the plugs have never been changed yet,it may simply be that they have fouled.Greg

Sounds like an ignition module failer. I would check that first.

Yes, Indicates that Alternator is going into a no charge state. If it is intermitten than more than likey the regulator on the alternator is bad.

Is it associated with accelerating/decelerating, or bumps?
The earlier e46s were a bit prone to breaking the tops out of their shock towers and for cracking around the connection points where the differential carrier mounts attach to the body. This is usually the result of drifting or other rough use, but I imagine that a nasty pot hole could cause it as well.

You will need a Torx head screwdriver.
First, disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected for several minutes because you don't want to lose a finger in the window mechanism or have the air bag blow up in your face.
Next, starting from the rear, carefully pry up the trim strip that runs from the door latch back to the back of the door. It is usually wood-grain finish, but may be aluminum or carbon fiber, depending on your interior package. Remove the screws beneath that trim.
Pop out the two oval plugs from the underside of the door handle, and remove the two screws beneath those plugs.
Now with something large and flat and preferably with no sharp edges, start snapping the inner door panel off. If you break some snaps, no worries. They are available on line for $0.35 each or at the dealer for about $1 each. The top of the door panel does not hook in the window sill like most cars, it snaps straight out.
Now disconnect the speaker wires, mirror control, and probably the air bag. You can leave the air bag connected if you are willing to work around it.
I presume that your window regulator is broken. Specifically, the piece of plastic that attaches the window mechanism to the cable. You can replace the whole regulator, but on my wife's '04 330i, I chose to put two good quality zip ties around it. One just above the broken piece and one just below it. There are holes and notches in the metal backing plate that work great to hold the zip ties in place. I did this repair a couple of years ago and the window still works just fine. Much quicker and cheaper than replacing the whole regulator.
If you unplug the air bag, DO NOT connect the battery and turn on the key to check your work while the air bag is unplugged. Doing so will set a critical fault in the SRS system that only a dealer or well-equipped BMW repair shop can clear. DAMHIK

Battery terminals may be corroded at the connection to the cables.

0000

shoulds like a flat battery.try jump start.if starts leave it running for a while to charge the battery/take it for a spin.

on your instrument cluster, turn the trip odometer reset switch to either direction to change time on both clocks...

Start car, remove black plastic screw by filler cap/top hose. Loosen just enough to let air out then you'll see some anti freeze seep out then tighten and you done.

Use the G-05 antifreeze, Usually in a gold bottle for Ford and Chrysler.

Procedure to change the windshield washer tank or pump on an E46.

Tools needed: 10mm spanner (in toolkit), small-medium flat blade screwdriver

Undo the 10mm nut, highlighted in the red circle. This is the only fastener holding down the washer tank. Lift the tank up about 4", allowing you to unclip the black plastic heatshield around the washer pump. This is where you need the screwdriver, to lift the securing tab from the washer tank (yellow circle). You can actually pull out the complete washer pump from the tank. Just gently pull up, it is a friction fit.

Now unclip the washer level sensor plug (green circle). This clip is a little difficult to figure out. I pulled it hard and it came off. Taking a closer look at it once it was off, I couldn't quite see how to unclip it from its securing catch.

At this point you have removed the washer tank. The two tabs at the bottom of the tank fit into recesses in the body work, in order to secure the tank. There is a filter screen in the tank, where the washer pump plugs into the tank (blue circle). Just pry this up with a screwdriver to remove it. I had bought a new one, just in case. You can see the fluid level sensor socket on the left side of the tank in this pic.

Now unclip the pump connector from the pump. Pinch the tab at the top of the connector. This will unclip the connector from the securing tab. Pull out the water hose from the nozzle on the pump

Replace the pump filter screen into the tank, if necessary. Plug in the new washer pump into the filter screen. Connect the water hose back onto the pump.

Position the washer tank into its approximate location and clip the sensor for the fluid level back into its socket on the tank.

Secure the heatshield back onto the tank.

Now position the washer tank into its secured position and fill with a little water, in order to test the pump out. Fasten the 10mm screw back into the plug. Attached Thumbnails

locks need reset,make sure the batterys are ok in fob if not replace.put key into drivers door and turn the key clockwise as if you are opening the door hold key in this position and at the sametime push and hold for about 30 seconds then reliease this should reset the system it will also work with the key in the ign lock.please rate this answer.adrian,,,,,,,

left hand thread

have alternator checked if battery is good. make sure battery has a good charge on it.con check cables meke sure they are tigth- no corrosion . grounds are good. sounds like alternetor.....

driving lights

The noise is coming from the starter solenoid. The plunger is acting but the Starter Solenoid Contacts are burnt. In some cases we replace the solenoid contacts and the plunger. All have 1/8" thick copper contacts.
The other options are, replace the solenoid, or the starter with a rebuild one.

You may still have a battery issue. The starter motor takes a tremendous amount of power to operate, where a light or radio draws much less current. I would attempt a jump start first to eliminate your battery and give you a direction in troubleshooting your issue.

You have to use a scanner to turn it off.