20 Most Recent 1995 BMW 5 Series - Page 9 Questions & Answers

sounds like a leaky oil presure switch. they will leak oil out of the wires comming out of them sometimes saturating the connector of the switch. If that isnt the problem then your oil pump is weak causing the lite to come on or your leak is so bad your oil level is so low the lite is coming on

I do not have a pdf map of the emmisions (this should be on a sticker under the hood) but it sounds like a EGR or exhaust gas recirculation hose to me.

Check the battery for a draw, if you know how to use a Ampere meter, put it inline and make sure all doors are closed, and if the car has a lamp under the hood disconnect it. With the Ammeter in line, you should see a reading on the meter.
If there is a reading, disconnect the amp power connector and the reading should drop. If it does, you may have to install a power relay to control the amplifiers to ensure they do not drain them in future.

The second possibility is that the power consumption of your amps is preventing the battery from charging completely. Especially if the battery has bad cells. It would be helpful to know what amprerage your alternator is putting out and what the amperage draw of your amps are while in use.
Of course if demand is higher than supply then the battery will have difficulty keeping up.

One quick check is to check battery voltage with a meter, start the car, check the voltage is it around 13 volts and increasing, turn on the amps, again check the voltage, is it still increasing or decreasing. Rev the car up a few rpm's If it is decreasing then you are taxing the charging system.
Replace the battery and try these tests again.

Hope this is of some help.
Ed

Turn signals are in the normal position. I drove my 525i 330,000 miles and then wrecked the darn thing! Keep the oil changed and you will go far!

Very common BMW problem. The front lateral arms that support the front to rear motion of the wheel. BMW calls it the upper, lower support arm. Two arms connect there. one left to right (think typical lower control arm, and this arm) It has a ball joint that connects to the lower most part of the strut and extends rearward to the rear crossmember and has a large bushing pressed into the arm. You can replace just the bushing if the ball joint end is ok. Bushings are about $45 each and you will need a press.

You need to pull the radio out and get the seriel number off of the radio itself. They were not very reliable to begin with and most had been replaced over the years under warranty. That's why you pull the number from the radio and not the car. You can then take proof of car ownership (insurance card, title, etc) to your local dealer and they can get it for you.

First of all check for loose connectors. Remove any fuse, clean the contact point and reconnect. Check if there is any earth leakage due to some loose contact with the vehicles body. Off course most instruments need power from the battery and many of them have IC's or microchips. Check for discoloration of these chips and e voltage surge or shorting could have damaged it. Replace one and see if the corresponding meter responds, then you can be sure where the problem is......sodeep

www.edmonds.com for owner manuals on line

No...not really. What you will want to do is get a tool called an easy out or screw extracter, from a place like Sears or somewhere else that sells tools. Take a screw from your valve cover so you know the size of extractor you need...it only costs a few dollars.

You have to drill a small hole in the center of your broken one. Then take the extractor and put pressure on it as you unscrew it. It should come right out. Find a replacement screw at the auto parts store or even look at Home Depot or equivelant

you might check for air leaks at the air intake as the sensor would go crazy if there is one. Try spraying some carburetor cleaner while it is running and if the engine starts to increase you have found a leak.

most have no dipstick. the transmission uses lifetime fluid and can only be checked when changing the fluid and filter. Usually a shop does this. Take it to a reputable shop who knows BMW's.

Hi,there have to be something runing at all times,check if the brake light is not staying on or the trunk or hood light,radio ,amp ,ect....

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IT'S VERY EASY TO RESET THE TRANSMISION'S COMPUTER. HOLD GAS PEDAL DOWN. TURN THE KEY TO THE NUMBER TWO. CONTINUE TO HOLD THE GAS PEDAL DOWN FOR THIRTY SECONDS.RELEASE THE GAS PEDAL AND PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL FOR TEN SECONDS. NOW YOU CAN TURN THE VEHICLE ON. THAT SHOULD TAKE IT OUT OF SAFE MODE

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Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Code : P1351 Make : BMW Description : P1351 BMW Misfire Cylinder 5 With Fuel Cut-Off Possible causes : - Faulty Spark Plug - Faulty Ignition Coil - Intake vacuum leak - Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor - Ignition Coil harness is open or shorted - Ignition Coil circuit poor electrical connection https://www.cardiag.me/en/obd2-en/p1351-bmw-2/ More here https://www.google.com/search?q=BMW+X5.+What+is+a+P1351 ..

You have a loose connection probably at the alternator that's usually the issue. You might have to trace the wire it runs to the DME.

I am not familiar with this model but have experienced a similar nightmare on a very model. I suspect that the child safety locks are set which is stopping you opening the doors from the inside and the outside handles are not working because the latches may have been set in the locked position.