20 Most Recent 2005 Nissan 350Z - Page 2 Questions & Answers

well code P0345 has nothing to do with the mass air flow sensor it stands for Camshaft Position Sensor A- Bank 2 Circuit Malfunction

Then the pump is not pumping.

If you have got one, i would appreciate it alot :)
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can't be done

it really does not mater it is all about what you prefer, but both will get the job done.

If it's digital there's a button somewhere I'm sure. However if it's a printed read out, then the cluster has to be changed over...however it should also read both. This is a common issue for service men bringing vehicles back from Europe as did I in 1998. Hope this helps !

Hello,
Here's something that's a very common cause of overheating, and it's easy to check.

How to test the thermostat in most vehicles;
Make sure the heater is off, start the engine and let it run for 6 to 8 minutes, ( this will allow the
engine to reach, " normal operating temperature "), from the inside of the vehicle turn the heater
temperature on high and turn the fan speed on high.
1. Listen very closely for a click sound from the engine, ( most thermostats make a click when
they open )
2. Watch your temperature guage, it should begin to lower as the coolant starts to circulate.
3. Usually within a few minutes the radiator fan will kick.


What the thermostat does;
It seperates your coolant into two parts. The first part is in your engine, the second part is in your
radiator and the coolant reservior. When the coolant in the engine reaches the temperature rating
on the thermostat the thermostat opens to allow the two parts of coolant to change places. Now
the cooled coolant in the radiator and reservior flows into the engine while the heated coolant flows
from the engine into the radiator and reservior to be air cooled by the radiator fan.

I really hope this helps you.
Donnie

Before I applied any force to any body par,t I would wait until a dealer opens on Monday, take the VIN and/or title or other proof of ownership and have the dealer make you a new key.

if you took your car to a shop they are going to tell you that to get your money, the brake fluid shouldn't be serviced until 60k, and a fuel induction service, you could buy at a parts store and do yourself. when a shop does those induction services they don't blow out your valves they just pour the chemical in your gas tank and send you on your way. don't let them tell you any different!!!

I did this myself before:

Removing the Door Panel

The first thing to do is remove the tab in your door handle that covers the screw (using the flat head screw driver), which secures the handle and window/lock switches to the door panel. Using the Phillips head screw driver, remove the screw. Now, remove the door handle and locate the tabs securing the wire harness for the door locks & power windows. Using the flat head, push down on the tabs and pull the male end out of the wire harness with your other hand. You can now locate 2 of the 3 bolts/screws that secure the door panel to the door.Using the 10mm socket, 3′ extension, and the 1/4′ drive socket wrench – remove the bolts/screws. Located behind the interior door handle is a plastic covering with a hole cut in it, that goes around the rubber piece that is there to stop the handle.Use the flat head screw driver to remove that plastic piece. Behind that piece, you will find the 3rd and final bolt/screw that secures the door panel. Using the 10mm socket, 3′ extension, and 1/4′ drive socket wrench, remove the bolt/screw. At this point you can pull the door panel off by hand.There are only tabs holding it on now, and they all will pop off. Now on the inside of the panel, you will need to locate the backside of the interior door handle. Remove the cables that operate the door lock, and opening mechanism. No tools are required for this step. Now you have the metal door panel, which is secured by 11-12 bolts/screws around the boarder of the panel.Locate the wire harness for the window motor in the upper right corner of the metal door panel. Using the flat head screw driver, disconnect the wire harness.After removing the panel, you will need to push the rubber grommet through the panel – the wire is attached to it. There will also be two white tabs on the backside of the panel that secure the female end of the window motor wire harness to the panel. Using your fingers (or pliers) pinch them, to remove the harness.

At this point, you can remove the 11 – 12 bolts/screws that are holding the panel to the door.The panel will not fully remove, but will come off a little bit. Now for the gold colored bolts/screws and nuts.Three of the bolts/screws are what secure the window motor to the panel.The other two bolts/screws, and the 2 nuts hold the brackets that hold the glass in place.there is one of these bolts/screws, and one of these nuts on each bracket (on each side). Using the 10mm socket, remove all of the bolts/screws.The Nuts are a 12mm socket; remove them as well. The panel should now come off, and the motor & guts of the door, will be revealed.