2008 Dodge Ram 1500 2WD - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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Wiring can get tricky sometimes. This is how I advise you to get around feedback on reverse lights when switching your backup cam on.

I have a 1998 ram 1500. And sometines especially when its hot outside mine down shifts hard as I'm slowing down. And the gas pedal feels stiff. I press the gas down real fast and it unsticks but then when I come to the next light it does it again. If it's cold out dose it doesn't do it as much if at all. I heard it could be a throttle body sensor. Any advise?

measure it

Get a pickle fork and start taking stuff apart. Every vehicle is different, YouTube will be your best friend.

standing in front of the engine, it would be the first cylinder on the left bank.

it all depends on if you have a v6 or a v8 under the hood... v6-1,6,5,4,3,2 with number one at the front right engine cylinder and number two on the left front engine cylinder, number one on the distributor cap should be at 9 o' clock when looking at the engine from the front... v8-1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 also number 1 cylinder at the engine's front driver's side, with number 2 cylinder on the passenger side most front cylinder, number one on the distributor cap should be at 7 o' clock when looking at the front of the engine... also both distributor shafts run clockwise, so should your firing order... or ya bang...

HAVE A LOOK HERE FOR YOUR ANSWER http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=88831

This is something that should not be repaired, just replaced. Would hate for it to fail when you need it most. The retractor is also the part that locks the belt down in a crash.

You may have a bad heater core

Front passenger side of engine block.

it could be a bad connection or wire for that bank and when the circuit gets warm it causes a connection problem or it could be a bad driver circuit in the computer.

This is not a fuse problem I don't think. It sounds like you need to replace the master switch they go bad often. I just replaced mine for my 2008 sebring it was doing the same as yours.

If it's got the coil over shock you take the 3 nuts off the top and the pivot bolt on the control arm, you may also need to pop the upper ball joint loose to get the lower control arm down far enough get the assembly out to compress the spring to change the shock.The center nut on the top of shock has pressure on it from the spring so do not remove that one til spring is compressed. If it does not have a coil over then it may be just the center nut on top if it goes through a bushing then the bottom bolt,just to be safe have the lower control arm sitting on a jack stand as that coil spring may have some pressure on the arms and use a floor jack on the body or cross member to relieve if you need to. I believe the shock will either come through the center of control arm on your 2wd or if it doesn't go through the center should come off then.

Just the shock bolt is enough to get these out. One on top and one on the bottom. Take note of the rubber bushings positions for when you put the new ones back on.

Your local Checker or Autozone can help with a code pull

check the fuel sock in the tank

You didn't specify what type of Dodge... 1500, 2500, 3500 but here is an image of the box on a 2008 1500. Hope this helps.

yes the hoses are to be hard and both suppose to be hot

you must ask a car tecnition it is beyond my solution