Top 20 2008 Chevrolet Avalanche - Page 5 Questions & Answers

You take it to guy like this . Causes of lean condition trouble codes P0171 P0174 GM 5 3L That has the tools an know how !

You need to run an OBD2 fault code test on this, it is the most important test you can do in order to make sense of what is going on. The test can be done by any Autozone parts store for free or other store like them.

Open the hood and look on top of head lights. There are two pins that pull up, then you can pull out lens assembly and change the bulb. don't touch new glass bulb with fingers, hold the plastic housing to install.

I would recommend you have it towed to a mechanic. If there is water in your gas tank, or even if possibly water found it's way into your engine, then it could be causing Hydro locking.

Chevy Avalanche 2002 2006 Factory Service Workshop repair manual for the easy solution download the pdf file

At list 1000.

It's an inline fuse. Fusible link. Here's a picture.

You can't.

i would check electrical connections all over then try again

Factory or after market? If it is after market, Tear it out and repair the wires. Good ones seem to last 5 to 7 years. If factory. Have the codes read. Could be the key chip, receiver, bcm, ecm, or a bad wire.

Everything except the front differential. Seals leaking? bearings.

Call a local mechanic to have a look ,maybe even the dealer ,never had a problem like this but it doesnt mean i couldnt sort it but from spain its difficult as i need my head under the bonnet/hood to get some idea ,but check the + battery terminal as it could a wire loose on here or its broke in the connection if nothing is happening as this supply would be for the power distribution box,right dinner on the table ..must go

Drive normally for a few days and it will relearn by itself.

UNDER HOOD FUSE BOX CHECK YOUR OWENERS MANUEL IT WILL TELL YOU WITCH ONE

50% of my repairs are just unplugging and plugging it back in, In essence just making a connection. Another 20% is because the wire breaks right behind the plug. (?) 10% is the computer is bad, 20% chasing wires. I fix clusters and computers. I don't recommend some one doing it though, unless you have the knowledge. There re a lot of parts in a cluster/computer that someone can do more harm than good to. Experience taught me this, and money. So if you don't have a ohm meter and a soldering station( not a soldering gun) I wouldn't recommend you do this on your own. Of course you really didn't say what you wanted to fix?

the first thing to do is to have the codes read. With this information to hand you will be able to determine if the shop knows what they are on about.

Open the cover to the door and pull the lock connector mostly rigged steel rods connected to the lock

if its COP ignition, couild be bad coil

Check for spark to the spark plugs, while cranking the engine. If no spark, you could have a bad ignition module, or a bad crankshaft position sensor. The crank sensor sends a signal to the computer, to start the fuel pump and signals the ignition module to start firing the spark plugs. It also drives the tachometer through the computer (PCM) Powertrain control module. The ignition module can be removed and taken to a parts store to have it tested. The crank position sensor is not as easy to test. Easier to just replace it. Good Luck. But wait, I have seen people replace the fuel pump, checked the fuel pump harness for power, and all was good. However, if the fuel pump does not have a GROUND, it will still not operate. Might want to check that. Have fun.

Reduced power is a mode the engine goes into when there is something wrong with the cooling or the firing. If the engine gets to hot it uses the pistons to air cool. This of course is not a for sure but where I would start.