2007 Ford Focus (3 Door) Hatchback - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check the wiring harness. Sounds like it has come in contact with the break assembly and is shorting out. Look for exposed wiring where the cover has worn off coming in contact with the break. Tape all exposed wiring and be glad you haven't had a small fire.

If you had a whining sound prior to the battery light, your regulator is failing due to faulty bearings causing the unit to overheat that is giving you the intermittent issue allowing the unit to charge when tested and still show the light. You are about to experience a total failure that will leave you on the side if you don't it corrected. I learned that this is a very common problem with this model and you are not alone. These failures are occurring at 30,000 to 45,000 miles and I suspect the part is defective,+ and Ford is obviously aware of this. Join the line and get loud with this manufacturer. There should be a recall to correct this problem. If yours is a standard shift, you are going to be forced to buy this from the dealer with a substantial mark-up, or buy a re-manufactured unit that may not give you any better service. Good luck, but get it fixed or you are going to be walking.

On the inside trim, you can remove screws that are by the door handle, arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want to break them. You'll need to lift the door panel upwards in order to get it off the window ledge. Then you'll need to manipulate the panel and disconnect the door handle linkage from the door handle and disconnect the wiring for your controls. Then you can access the bolts that secure the mirror onto the door

I am not real familiar with 2007 Focus but I believe that if you drove with it on the brake band is no good. There is not very much friction material on these anyways so they can't stand much driving before they are gone.

2 possibiltys.piston rings are wore letting the oil blow by.second could be your valve guides are wore and also blowing by.

yes it is. Same motor, I do believe the tranny housing should bolt the same as well. You may have to take the computer with you to new vehicle. They go by vin numbers

You did not specify the type and model of the cd player. The best bet is to consult the owners' manual.

They squeek or squeel because they may need adjustment or replacement. The noise is a safety feature when in need of replacement. Good Luck.

Two ways to help with your problem....You can get a section of aluminum or tin and fashion a heat shield to cover the area that is making the floor hot. when attaching it, use spacers so it stands away from the attachment points. You can also buy heat wrap and heat "blankets" form many race suppliers (I know for sure they are available from Summit racing). Wrap goes on pipes etc and blanket can be installed under your rug. I know it's annoying to have to fix a poor factory design, but at least there is a cure.
Good luck!!

Yes but the bonnet was latched by it's strike to the latch attached to your cars radiator support therefore pulling the radiator support out of alignment and the hood/bonnet and strike are in the proper position. The solution is to adjust the bent radiator support to it's latch is in alignment with the strike.
Good luck

On all newer cars you do not take off the cover. If you look directly behind where the bulb is that you want to replace(this will be under the hood) you will see where the bulb goes. To remove unplug wires then the large black ring that holds the bulb in turn it counter clockwise. Remove old bulb and replace with a new one being careful not to touch the glass part of the new bulb. Then reinstall the bulb will only go in one way.

IF ALL WINDOWS ARE NOT WORKING IT LOOKS LIKE.THE POWER WINDOW CIRCUIT BREAKER IS BLOWN.CHECK THE HEATER AND AC IGNITION FUSE.MAKE SURE POWER IS AT THE SWITCH.IF ALL IS GOOD.CHECK BLOWER MOTOR FUSE AND RELAY.IF THEY ARE GOOD.HOT WIRE BLOWER MOTOR IF IT WORK YOU HAVE A BAD BLOWER MOTOR SWITCH AND RESISTOR.IF BLOWER MOTOR DONT WORK.REPLACE BLOWER MOTOR.

the light indicates that the trans is in limp mode. should be checked.
good luck

just cut the wires that move the actual mirror and then you need to put something so water does not come in to your car

the bearing needs to come apart remove the silver cap you should see a cotter pin holding the spindle nut remove the pin then the lock shield for jam nut then remove jam nut be careful as bearing may fall out there is a washer between jam nut and bearing then you should be able to remove drum

pop the trunk and you should see a screw near the grommet holding the light in place... there's also a screw that you can turn by hand inside the trunk just underneath where the light is..... once that's out.. your light will pop out

Last time i had this fault on a 2006 model, we changed the injection distributor head. Fords know of this problem and you will find them most helpful. You must ensure you work with utmost care as even a small amount of dirt in the system with cause problems.

Time for a brake Job? Drive a small cheap car hard and you can run the brakes off quick. Real brakes come with real cars and these light cars have small brakes and if run hard or two footed can wear out quickly. Light niose can be rust wiped off the rotor after parked awhile then driven. Some brake rotors are different alloy and rust more than others and even a car just like yours might not do it. If the inspection doesnt find loose or broken brake parts cooked or craked, rim and tire problems can make noise move the tire to the back and the rear on the front run again to see if the problem moves to the rear. replace the broken parts and try again

Is there not a sticker on drivers door, or door post with that labeled on it?

You most likely disconnected the wireing harness. Check the plugs at the brakes.