20 Most Recent 2007 Chevrolet Cobalt Coupe - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Could be a bad coil but usually blinking is emission related, catalytic converter? Recommend you take that to a certified Chevy mechanic for a diagnostic, it's not that expensive.

fan control module

Could be the controller, the motor that switches positions, or just a corroded plug. Plugs are most common when things are intermittent. Ussually unplugging them and plugging them back in will take care of the problem.

I had an issue with ny 4 ways on a CObalt, it was just the wire on the back that had come unplugged from the hazard switch. if your's wont stay depressed, it may be a damaged switch.

I`m surprised this didn`t come from the factory with a block heater already installed. if so look for an electrical plug like would be for a house hold lamp, somewhere in the area of the battery. if it didn`t come with one when you buy a block heater the instruction tell you were it is to be installed on the engine and position of element.

To do this you would have to remove a freeze out plug from the engine block

Most likely the slack adjuster is rusted. this doesn't keep the brake against the drum/rotor. Could be the bolts that go into the rotor type brakes are frozen. Won't slide in and out.

usually either under the dash behind the glove box or behind the kick panel closest to the dash on the passenger side. hope this helps

Pull back plastic panel behind taillight in trunk and loosen 3 nuts and taillight will then pull out and light bulb can then b replaced

needs a left front door speaker
to verify this turn your radio on then FADE to front only
then turn the BALANCE all the way to left
hope this helps

doubt it's the torque converter. chnces are with the warning light it is either the trans control module. engine speed sensor or it be a gummed up soleniod in the trans. be fore you go to shop try Lucas Oils trans additive it's about 10 bucks and it should take care of the gummed up solenoids. rate this please.

This car is under recall for bad ignitions. Get thee to a dealer for the fix. And yes, the jolt from impact can make the actuator rod become disengaged. And time and wear can do it.

The contact from that relay were really hot. I can't tell, if the corrosion on the contacts came first, or the other way around, but I think you have to replace the contact under the relays too. Or the same thing will happen again, but very soon. Only measuring the current, when the system is working, can tell if it was to high. I don't think so, because one or more fuses would have blown sooner.

Look for more wires under the relay. Relays usually involve atleast 3 wires.You may have wires burnt back further than what you are seeing.

Bad (tight)ball joint that will not take grease.