Top 10 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited Questions & Answers

Hey all,
I was able to get installation instructions for the cross bars from http://www.capitolhyundai.com and from http://dealerfit.com.  Thanks much to these folks for providing a pdf of these instructions free of charge!
Below is the text from the instruction set that worked best for me.  The other instruction set was nearly identical but it had an alternate Step 2 which involved using a small plastic pry bar.  I added that alternate Step below in the instruction step.  Hopefully I'm able to insert the image of each instruction set so that the Figures are visible.  Its actually not that easy getting the rear rail covers off and its pretty easy to crack them.  I'd recommend gently rocking the covers for a couple minutes in order to loosen them up.  Once you get the covers off, the rest of the install is a breeze and can be done in 2 minutes.  If you have questions, go ahead and contact me.  I also took several photos of my install and that might be helpul.  Cheers!
-LePig
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
SANTA FE 2008 PIN U8210-28000 Cross Bar Assembly Installation Procedures
Kit Contents: • (2) Cross Bar Assemblies Required Tools: • Flat Head Screwdriver
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
1. Carefully unscrew and remove radio antenna. 2. Grasp the rear rail covers with both hands. Squeeze and pull up & inwards (toward the center of the vehicle) to remove covers. Take care not to break off the tabs by lifting the rear section of the cover first (Figure 1). Be careful not to scratch, damage or dent any painted surfaces. DO NOT PRY AGAINST THE VEHICLE BODY, THIS CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE. 2. - Alternate Method - Locate notch in rear of each cover to insert plastic pry bar.  Remove cover by prying up (with tool) and lifting rear at 45 degree angle (Fig 1). Be careful not to scratch, damage or dent any painted surfaces. DO NOT PRY AGAINST THE VEHICLE BODY, THIS CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE. 3. Check assembly clips for damage and dislocation. Replace if necessary. 4. Open the lever on one side of front/rear cross bar. Gently set the cross bar, with the arrows facing forward, into the channel of the side rails (Figure 2). Guide both sides into the track. 5. To adjust cross bars, open lever and place cross bars in desired location. Close lever (Figure 3). Try to move bars forward/back until they lock into place. 6. Reinstall rear covers by holding cover at a 45 degree angle and inserting the front tab into the rear of the roof rack. After aligning, snap cover in place (Figure 4). Be sure that the rubber lip does not interfere with the covers, and that the covers are fully seated. 7. Reinstall the radio antenna. Note: To remove the cross bars, remove the antenna, remove the covers, open lever of cross bar and slide to end of rail. Hold down locking fingers (on both RH/LH rear rail supports) with a flat head screwdriver (Figure 5). This will allow removal of cross bars from the rails.

I just had to buy one too and these are the instructions I was given by the guy I bought it from. I haven't tried them yet. Hopefully they work for us both :).

1.Find the ETACS unit under the steering wheel first,there is a small switch onit.
2.Once the switch is located make sure your key is not in the ignition and set the switch from off to set.
3.Press keyfobs door lock button for one second, this sends the codes to the ETACS and stores it.
4.Do the same thing if you have 2 remotes for the vehile.
5.Now set the ETACS switch from set to off.
6.Remotes should now be programed.

Hi, I have had similar intemittent dead\low battery problems with my 2008 CDX+.

The garage could never find anything wrong with the charging system, battery or drain. I bought a replacement battery, jump start power pack, battery tester and battery charger, in total costing hunders of pounds in an attempt to resolve the problem.

I was on the point of selling it when one day I heard the roof mounted DVD player making noises when I hadn't switched it on (I never switch it on). After disconnecting it the car started perfectly for months. After reconnecting it the issue came back, however I could never recreate the problem at the dealership as it was intermittent, and they had it for days. Eventually the DVD player took in a disc and refused to eject it. This was enough to have it replaced under warranty. Unfortunately the new one took about 4 months to come in and I have never recieved my disc back.

The new DVD player seems to have helped, however I can still report that in the 6 months or so since fitting I have had one of the new overhead bulbs blow and the battery has been dead on 2 occassions. The last occassion was yesterday and we had driven the car fine the day before.

I now carry the power pack in the car at all times, however as this is my wife's car she is concerned about being stranded with our new baby. My thoughts have once again turned to changing cars (new diesel auto crv 2010?) which is a shame as the Santa Fe ticks the boxes in so many other areas.

Hope this helps. ?

From the factory service manual

1. Remove the screws holding the console side cover and remove the side cover.

2. Remove the screws holding the floor console assembly and then pull out the floor assembly. (looks like a two screws inside the arm console in the diagram)

Here is a link to a factory service manual for your SUV. Hyundai Service Manuals

these codes have to do with the corralation between the pedal and the throttle sensor module on the engine. You will need to get it doagnosed to find out what is wrong since the usual culprit cost several hundred dollars.

It is most likely it is the hood switch. A vibration in the earth would vibrate the vehicle just a bit to make the hood pin not make enough contact. The pin itself would make a indentation on the rubber bump on the hood. This makes the pin not press down enough to make contact and thus made it go off.



One other possibility besides the hood pin problem is when the siren assemblygoes bad. This problem surfaces when driving down the road or just sitting in front of your house. It's an internal short in the siren assembly.

This code can be very confusing as it isn't always the convertor going out. I have given you a link to an article that will help explain the code and possible fixes.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/p0420_dtc.htm

There are several potential (possible) causes for this code (Checking output signals from fuel tank pressure sensor under evap.system test, if fuel tank's vacuum is higher than prescribed threshold, PCM sets P0441.

1. The fuel tank pressure sensor sends a signal (voltage signal) to the PCM (Powertrain Controm Module) when it performs a diagnostic test of the Evaporative Emissions System (EVAP).

Frequent Causes:

If this sensor (DPS - Differential Pressure Sensor (fuel tank pressure sensor) is telling a lie (wrong/erratice voltage signals) to the PCM, it could cause this code, P0441, to set.

Also, if the purge control solenoid valve (PCSV) is not operating properly (i.e., stuck open), it can also set P0441.

Finally, if the EVAP charcoal canister filter is clogged causing a restriction in the purge air flow, it can also set P0441 (rare, most often, if the filter is restricted, the PCM will set a different code (i.e. P2422 - Emission System Vent valve stuck closed).

The most probable cause is the PCSV (Purge Control Solenoid Valve).-- seen it very often. This does not mean you should start throwing money after parts until you get lucky and find it the expensive way.

Your problem may still be under warranty repair coverage - check with your nearest Hyundai Dealership & ask the appropriate questions. They'll tell you if your issue is still covered under warranty.

Hope this helps.

findme('p0441'); findme('P0441'); findme('P0441');

Well, I can tell you what the service manual actually says, then I can tell you what I usually end-up doing in the "real world"

Your Santa Fe is equipped with 2 fuel level sensors. One is located on the fuel pump assembly on the left side of the fuel tank and the other is located in the right side of the fuel tank. Both of these can be accessed under the back seat. It is not necessary to remove the fuel tank to get to them.

The service manual has you do a whole bunch of circuit testing on all the connecting wires between the instrument panel and the fuel tank. Then it has you check the connectors and the wires between the two sensors. Then, when all the wires check out OK, the service manual actually says to "substitute sensor with 'known good' sensor and retest." It says to do this for the left sensor, then it says to do this for the right sensor if the problem isn't fixed by "substituting" the left sensor.

What to do in the "REAL WORLD":
Go to your Hyundai dealer and buy a fuel level sensor service kit. It comes with BOTH sensors AND instructions on how to install the things. Just replace both of them and get it over with. I have done DOZENS of these things and have NEVER found anything wrong with the wiring. Howerver, I am a professional, and the one time that I don't check the wires, it will come back and bite me in the %$#! - so I do all the checks anyway just to insure I don't end-up with an angry customer...:)

Now you MAY want to consider replacing the fuel pump module while you are in there just because of the mileage. I would DEFINITELY recommend it for other vehicles where the fuel tank has to come out, but yours is so easy to get to it won't make that much difference down the road in labor costs.

I had exact problem Santa Fe 2007 2008 lock was stuck in locked position and door would not open from inside or out. All other doors would unlock with auto key remote. Carefully work the inside lock towards the open position as you lock and unlock the door with the remote. As you press unlock try to assist the lock to open. I did this a few times and the lock became free to the open position and all worked perfectly after this.