May be odd but anti theft can shut down the injectors, check injector fuses and relay.. You could have a problem such as key magnet is bad. If you have a spare key try it, or if you have tried many times may have to look at reprogram. I really am not sure but the anti-theft has given me problem twice in the last 10 year but it was GM cars. Most important of all if you have check engine light are any trouble code you need to check it. It is the best way to narrow the search down.
check fuses battery and connections---try boosting the car if starts have battery and alternator tested the battery sounds like it has enough power to turn on lights and dash but not enough to start vehicle
Tim, sounds like tumblers in ignition may be sticking or your keys cut worn out, put key in ignition and hit end of key sharply/some force with a small hammer, wrench, screw driver handle what ever you have, try turning key.
If this dose not do it call a good locksmith, they are cheape then the dealer.
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You need an OBD scanner. The link below shows what one looks like:
obd Google Search
However, the check engine light is / was on for a reason. You should first use an OBD to identify what the error code - the fault - is and rectify it.
Once a fault is rectified the oBD scanner will be able to reset the check engine light.
It's probably easier and cheaper to get a mobile mechanic to do it for you.
Not sure exactly what you are looking for, but in general newer cars with aluminum heads require special care when changing plugs. I like the iridium plugs, though they do cost extra, and are more difficult to set the gap correctly. Always remove old plugs when engine is completely cold, to avoid damaging the threads on the head. Use small amount of anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs, being careful to not get any on the electrodes. Follow torque specs when tightening new plugs and you should be good to go. If plugs are located in hard to reach places, you may need to remove coil packs and other items to make access possible.
cylinder head gaskets have an in built adhesive that glues the head to the block. For this to work it is imperative that both the head and block surfaces are clean. Use an oil remover ( turpentine) . Make sure there is no oil or water in the stud holes as this will ooze out when the studs are being tightened destroying the adhesive properties of the gasket.
no engine told at all. (i will answer for USA spec, cars only)a Generation 4 car.such an easy problem. any car the fails parked is easy to diagnose and 10x more safe to do. 2 engine, offered day1 new. which one is it.3.3 L V63.8 L V6Ever fix an engine that only fails down hill in left turns only.see?hood up.not told you, does the starter crank the engine fast when dead.?called a no crank engine, or is way too slow ,weak battery.aka. cranks fast but will not start.you have 2 hours to find it, easy no?1: we test for spark first. google how to test spark. 100 years its the same way..do not ever scramble the 6 wire coil pack wires.2: ok spark is good we use spray test fuel (in a can) called instant start in a can, does it start now?yes. but runs 3 seconds and stalls.3: fueling is bad, we just learned. if will not run step 2 that is a bad engine,easy no? just simple tests so far.next comes fuel pressure. test at the fuel rails using fuel pressure test gauge. (a tool) 55 and 49psi chart above order. spec.keep in mind it can be just 1 rusty wire, wrongnot replacing by guess 10 or 20 good parts and now broke.it can also be bad fuel or dead fuel pumpand lots and lots more, but we do the tests in orderto find the cause, and more tests. watch scotty yethttps://youtu.be/064Ilsz8Fzg
In this model, the TCM is often located near the transmission, mounted on or near the transmission housing. However, exact locations can vary slightly depending on the specific vehicle configuration. It's advisable to consult the vehicle's service manual or a qualified mechanic for precise information on locating the TCM in your specific vehicle.
troubleshoot this further:
Check Transmission Fluid:
The first step is to inspect the transmission fluid. Low or contaminated fluid can lead to poor shifting performance. Ensure the fluid levels are adequate and replace it if necessary.
Throttle Position Sensors and Shift Solenoids:
Misaligned throttle position sensors or malfunctioning shift solenoids could be causing the gear shifting problems. These components play a crucial role in proper gear changes. A professional diagnosis is recommended. It is not unusal for a defective solenoid to render this effect.
Transmission Control Module (TCM):
The TCM manages the transmission's operation, including gear shifting. If it's malfunctioning, it can lead to incorrect or no gear shifts. Consider checking or replacing the TCM.
Shift Linkage or Cable Issues:
Damaged or worn shift linkage or cables can also cause gear shifting problems. These components connect the gear shift lever to the transmission. Inspect and replace any damaged parts.
Remember that diagnosing transmission issues usually requires professional expertise.
Spare wheels are no longer required due to the torque setting to remove a wheel and the use of sealants that inflate a flat tyre for a limited period of time allowing one to get the tyre repaired/replaced.
Space saving comes straight to mind.
That is called the Exhaust Manifold. One side is attached to the side of the engine, and the other side is attached to the end of the Catalytic Converter. If the car is horrendously loud, someone has stolen it. If you can see it under the van, the gaskets just need replacing or the bolts tightening. The Cat often has a flex pipe which can split, in which case it needs replacing.
When you say the "oil light," do you mean the light that says "Change oil" or are you seeing the red light that indicates low oil pressure? If you're seeing that red light, that likely means you have low oil pressure and should stop driving immediately, until the problem is diagnosed and repaired. It's also possible to see the oil pressure light on when there's no issue with oil pressure, if the oil pressure sender has failed or there's a connection problem.If the oil light you're referring to is the "change oil" light, you will need to manually reset it for it to disappear. Here's how (from Chrysler):1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position (do not start the engine).2. Fully depress the accelerator pedal, slowly, three times within 10 seconds.3. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF/LOCK position.NOTE: If the indicator message illuminates when you start the engine, the oil change indicator system did not reset. If necessary, repeat these steps.
If it is a petrol engine, check the Octane of your fuel and if correct suspect the ignition timing.
Don't run it like that for long as damage may occur to the pistons.
I found a forum post on Jeep Enthusiast Forums that provides the tightening sequence for the 3.8L upper intake plenum of a 2007 Chrysler TWC. Here are the steps:
Remove covering on lower intake manifold and clean surfaces.
Inspect manifold gasket condition. Gaskets can be re-used, if not damaged. Position new gasket in seal channel and press lightly in-place. Repeat procedure for each gasket position.
Position upper manifold on lower manifold.
Apply Mopar® Lock & Seal Adhesive (Medium Strength Threadlocker) to each upper intake manifold bolt.
Install and tighten bolts to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) using torque sequence.
Here is the torque sequence for the 3.8L upper intake plenum:
6 2 4
5 1 3
Please note that this information is provided as-is and I recommend consulting a professional mechanic for any further assistance.