20 Most Recent 2011 Chevrolet Chevrolet Cruze LT Questions & Answers

reverse on most cars is a canary gear, (coal mine refr) it is a square cut gear and has no sychromesh parts. so loves to grind or even balk !, if clutch disk drags even the most tiny about it means the bleed was not done fully and correct dont feel bad, clerical clutch lines are super hard to bleed you forcing fluid DOWN to the slave bleed (niPPLe-zerk)_ and air bubbles want top float up. a war happen here in counter forces. in the Chev , factory they used pressure bleeding to do it faster. or you removed clutch linkage? and put it back wrong ok told 2 of 4 causes. not told the job you did only a CHANGE word did you pull the transmission, says the blind guy me? most cases the slave and master cylinder were bad 100% sure this ,, if the MC, reservoir was dry . the fluid leaks out mostly while driving UNSEEN by you until oops cap off reservoir and its dry or drops day by day.

The switch in the door has failed. On most gm vehicles it is integrated into the latch mechanism.

This is the same as a battery light. It is telling you that the vehicle is drawing more current from the battery than is being provided by the charging system. This will eventually lead to battery failure and vehicle shutdown. The problem could be the battery, alternator, wiring, or a combination of these.

If you have access to a propane torch, you heat them up some and they will come loose. be careful tough, you are heating up around brake fluid and there is a diaphragm in the booster you don't want to destroy. You can also reuse the old nuts.

Error codes are multiple digits not single.

check to make sure the bulbs are working front and rear and on the dash for this side. if good then you can try changing the flasher for the signals not the flasher for the hazards. if this doesn`t work then you may have a problem with the bcm. its possible to have a problem with the signal switch but unlikely.

Have you checked the engine computer for trouble codes ? And is it still covered under warranty ?

Tensioner pulleys are designed to be 'Self Adjusting'. These pulleys are on spring loaded arms so they automatically push against the belt keeping it tight. You use a socket or a spanner to swing the pulley arm back against this spring. *Note* This is a powerful spring so BE CAREFUL when your working on it! A lot of these tensioners have two small holes to help with installing a belt. When you swing the tensioner arm back these two holes line up with each other. You can then slide a hex key, or something similar, through both holes and it holds the arm back giving you space to get the belt on. *Caution* When your ready to release the tensioner DO NOT just pull the hex key out!! With the socket or spanner you used to swing the tensioner arm back push the arm against the spring again, carefully pull the allen key out then Carefully release the pressure on the spring so the pulley sits correctly and tensions the belt.

Help in the link. It may be a faulty switch, but you can test it. https://www.google.com/search?q=2012+Chevrolet+Orlando+open+jammed+hatch ..

check the abs system for relay and electrical problems the clicking can be from a cycling relay and the head lights flickering from the power draw for the abs away from the head lights.

You either replace the whole board as a module, or a company like RS Components, or even Amazon can sell you just the solder-on USB socket. https://www.google.com/search?q=usb+port+replacement ..

The oil cooler runs through the radiator and when damaged can exchange fluids.

google 1994 Chevrolet C1500 5.7 l ransmission control module select images and you will see module.