2006 Toyota Avalon XLS - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check the condition of the wheel bearings.

No it is unlikely the ECM/ECU would be the problem

Instructions

1. • 1

     Remove the battery cover to access the battery terminals. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable with the pliers.

   • 2

     Open the glove box door and squeeze the outer part to remove the door. Locate the two screws behind the door to remove the glove box.

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   • 3

     Access the ECU behind the glove box. Remove the electrical connectors by hand; remove the bolts mounting the ECU to the inner dash.

   • 4

     Install the new ECU in the same position. Replace the bolts and reconnect the electrical connectors.

   • 5

     Replace the glove box and the glove box door. Reconnect your battery.

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check all your fuse under bonnet or under driver or passenger compartment site.i like to know if you have immobilizer alarm in your car.

Need to have the dealer check it out. Should still be under warranty.If not you need to check the wire connections, could be loose.

Can be several things. Bad Radiator, Bad hoses on radiator, or nearby water pump is leaking. They make a Radiator pressure tester which will put pressure in the system so you can see where the leak is coming from.

Try cleaning the injectors with professional type injector cleaning tool and cleaner..

Might have drunken. Wait for some time and re-try.

Your best solution would be to have it towed to where you can replace the radiator. Running an engine without sufficient water can cause the engine to seize if it overheats. A seized engine may have to be replaced. How far do you need to drive it?

Do you have the dash light dimmer rheostat control turned off by mistake? It is very common to find this.

if the bulbs are good, then check the signal from the transmission range switch.you can check that at the bulb socket with the park brake set, the key on/engine off and put trans in reverse. use a test light and check power in the light socket. no power indicates bad fuse, bad wiring, or bad range switch.

onestly, your best bet is to replace the valve if nor mistaking it comes with the sensor, make sure pasages are not blocked, start the car with out the egr it will go up and down rpm and will be noisy if egr pipe is not blocked

You need to replace the blower motor resistor.

Where is located on the steering wheel? You could pull the cover off. You need to be extremely important when figgiting with the airbag system, dear. One wrong move, you set those airbags off, you might as well junk your car. Car is useless once those airbags are set off. My suggestion to you is just to take the car in. Save yourself the time and hassle of trying to do it yourself, I know that the labour cost isn't really saving, but, in the long run, it'll be worth it!

Possibly something stuck to the exhaust or catalityc converter, look for plastic bags etc melted to the exhaust. If not check to make sure there are noi oil leaks and check the drive belts on the engine.

I have seen people drop a nut into the pump or leave a bolt loose which is now interfering with the impeller in the new pump. Have you turned the pump by hand to be sure its spinning freely? Also keep in mind that just because its new, its not 100% that its not faulty. It could have been damaged or have a faulty bearing in it being no fault of yours (or your mechanic's). Just some thoughts! Good luck!

The filter is behind the glove box. there shouldn't be any trim to remove.

You have a vacume leak, and once the temp sensor starts to read after the warm up the ecm starts to control. I would also check IAC idle air control valve.

depending on the motor,, it could be an O2 sensor, or the MAP sensor , Lots of things make a car sputter at higher RPM"S,

Sounds like air in the system for the heater core. I had a mechanic tell me once to take the radiator cap off (when car is cold) then start the car with it off for about 25 minutes. Try to park so that the front end of the car is higher than the back. The air bubble will work it's way up to the top and come out. The coolant may splash a little when the air bubble does rise and come out. You will notice that the coolant level in the radiator is a bit lower. When you notice that, shut the car off, top off the radiator with coolant, put the cap back on and you shouldn't notice the gurgling anymore. You can repeat it again as needed. I've done this on my own vehicle and it did get rid of the rushing water noise. Hope this helps.