20 Most Recent 1967 Pontiac GTO Questions & Answers

.035 should work. If you go to auto store to buy spark plugs, they will usually write the gap on the plug box. If you have to look-up spark plugs in a little book in the automotive section of some store, hopefully the info will include the gap. The gap I posted came out of an old Motors manual for your model year.

Vacuum modulator has an internal leak. Tranny fluid is being sucked up the vacuum hose and into the engine. Kinda surprised you didn't mention shifting problems tho. A bad modulator usually causes the engine to wind out more before shifting to the next gear. Or you have an additional problem besides the modulator.

Without hearing the noise I can only guess. Probably a hydraulic lifter. Many 50s, 60s and 70s engines had this problem. Varnish builds up in the lifter body. If it's just a SLIGHT tick, I wouldn't worry about it. You could try a different brand of oil and some engine cleaner. As an aside, I personally own a 91 GMC pick-up with a 4.3. It had a clicking lifter on start up and 10 min after. I always used Castrol oil, supposedly one of the best. Switched to Penzoil, it was on sale. No more click! If you want to try and un-stick it, try this. Be forewarned, it WILL make a mess! Try and locate which side of the engine the noise is coming from. Remove the valve cover. Inspect for bent pushrods and rocker arm stud pulling out of the head. If you find either of these problems, disassemble the whole valve train and inspect/replace worn parts. Back then, Pontiacs and SBCs were notorious for studs pulling out of the head if you ran them hard. Start engine. Oil will spray/mist everywhere. You were warned. LOL Watch the rocker arms as it idles. If one does not move as far as the others, and the click is more of a bang, you have a collapsed lifter. A worn cam lobe will be much more quiet than a collapsed lifter, but you will see decreased movement of the rocker arm. Replacement is the only option on both. Take a RUBBER (not metal ) or plastic dead-blow hammer and rap the rocker arm(s) several times where the pushrod mates with it. Over the years I have used this method with approx 60% success.

45 ft/lbs in 3 steps: 20, 30, 45. Use some kind of moly lube - or at least engine oil - on the threads and under the bolt head. Aftermarket studs/nuts like ARP will be slightly higher. Package will give instructions.

Number 1 cylinder is on the drivers side closest to the radiator. If facing the front of the car its the closest one to you on the right. The right bank of cylinders are sequenced 1-3-5-7 and the left 2-4-6-8 from front to back. Firing order should be on top of the intake manifold.

I believe those older cars used circuit breakers, not relays, for the power window systems. By using a test light, you don't know if battery voltage is present at the window switch. Maybe the voltage is reduced, somehow. I would first check the switch's power with a voltmeter. If the motor is getting battery voltage, I would say the motor. If the voltage is low, you had better find a wiring diagram, Dave, to trace it out.

Please ask an actual question that can be answered.

They made 3 or 4 models of those, in the 389 engine, I believe it was 650 cfm.

google it. specifically

they have a flexable driver for that I think back in the day it was1/8 allen wrench with the dwell meter

The horn relay is located on the drivers side of the firewall just beneath the drip sill on the far right.

kevin it sounds like its your ignition lock tumbler key and not your switch you can find it at an autozone store near you.

Usually driveshaft, u-joint issue.

Question edited for clarity and add maker.Question moved to correct category.This is not normally a torqued item. The copper washers crush to seal. Hand tighten, tighten with a wrench to resistance and then snug it down a quarter turn.https://www.google.com/search?q=1971+Pontiac+GTO+bolt+torque+settings..

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