20 Most Recent 2006 Mitsubishi L200 2.5 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

For the handle. Pull it back, on the front there will be a slot or set screw in the front. Set screw takes an allen wrench to loosen. Slot, insert a small flat screw driver and push in and pull up. To remove the shifter , you have to remove the console first. Screws and bolts could be(I do to many, I just know where to look). Panels under the dash, under cup holder mats, remove the box and lid, some under them. At the back, remove the blower vent or cover. and on the sides, you have to move the seats forward to get to them. then 4 bolts to remove and the wires and cables.

Turbocharger Wastegate System Malfunction http://www.autocodes.com/p0234_mitsubishi.html

Take it to a mechanic and they will put a tester on your computer hook up that will tell you what sensor is not working. Then you go from there.

Behind the glove box

I would need to hear the noise to be of any help pinpointing the cause, but I doubt it is the valves, sounds more like engine bearings from your limited description of the noise.

Any codes?Battery, connection,starter,fuel a filter and pump.

Take the rocker cover and the upper timing belt cover off. Set No 1 Cylinder to TDC - use the markings on the cam spocket to get this - and confirm it's on the compression stroke by check both inlet and exhaust valves are closed and on the heel of the cam. In this position, check rockers 1,2,4 and 5. Take care with the feeler guage to make sure you're right under the pad under the adjuster screw properly and completely passing under it, not sticking part way. Rotate the engine (crank shaft) 360 degrees. This should bring No 4 to TDC - confirm that both inlet and exhaust valves are closed and on the heel of the cam. In this position, check rockers 3,6,7 and 8. Clearance for Intake and Exhaust is 0.25mm at normal engine operating temp. Don't forget to fit a new rocker cover gasket and half moon seal (use something like Hylomar to help make sure the half moon is sealed properly - usual suspect when rocker cover leaks at the back of the engine).

Do you mean valve clearance settings?

I would suggest trying salvage yards. www.car-part.com would be a good starting place.

The alternator produces current but it is also accompanied by a voltage regulator circuit to prevent overcharging. That is the area that needs addressing to resolve your anomaly.

go to your mitsubishi dealer and ask for it theyll give it to u for free.

I am not sure of the exact transmission you have but, the transmission fluid filter is almost always in the transmission. It is usually the first discernible item when the pan is removed. It can look like a screen or a bound piece of fabric held in place by a few screws. If you want to change it and not familiar with it, buy a filter and gasket kit in advance and you will be able to identify it by comparing it to the new one.

No they will not.

sounds bad, jack it up and have a look underneath. Track rod end disconnected? broken link between steering column and steering box

This is an excellent engine for timing up every cog has a timing mark in the front castings and of course on the cogs except the injector pump the mark is on the casting but the wheel has a sub plate carrying the mark so it is most important to mark the plate with reference to the cog before taking off the four six mm bolts. The balance shafts also have pecks in them and corresponding casting marks, be sure to change both timing belts at the same time.the crank pulley can be troublesome as most were auto boxes so the engine can't be held. I made a simple but very effective way of holding the crank solid, in the book it suggests wedging flywheel with screwdriver which is impossible. On the lower bell housing casing there are two very thick angled webs, remove dirt plate four bolts, now you can see the starter ring. Drill at tap the angled webs 8mm with holes perpendicular to the crank centre and central on the starter ring.get two 8mm cap screws 40mm long and nuts. Grind the tips to a stub point at the angle between the starter ring teeth, put on the lock nuts right to the shoulders and screw them into your tapped holes, firstly having set the crank to the mark on the inner belt cog TDC, tighten the bolts into the starter ring and set the lock nuts. The crank won't move I have had the torque bar to 220ftlbs on the front bolt not a movement all timing is made so simple from this point forward as is the refitting of the 5th harmonic damper pulley with lots of loctite