20 Most Recent 2010 Mazda 3 2.0 Questions & Answers

Maybe the power oil container need to be changed ..and check the power circle to see if oil is running through the pipes .

Its normal .. its the automatic choke,,, no problem,,, the high idle should last longer in the winter.. when it "cold" in Florida.. hehehe...

Make sure all of the doors, trunk & hood are securely closed.

check for a loose /bulb wire to the bulb

Do you have another key to try and if so is the problem still there? If it is, the ignition cylinder is worn and will have to be replaced. It will be cheaper to have this cylinder replaced while the key is still able to turn. When the key is unable to turn, the labor cost goes up as well as more parts may be needed as the cylinder needs to turn in order for it to be disassembled and re[placed

Trans fluid is changed at mileage intervals, and near the end, it looks like you describe. You want to do both: flush and filter. The filter and the pan hold the real contaminants, so those get changed and cleaned...but then you're left with a giant amount of fluids in the system. Torque converter, piping, cooler, piping...the amount is not insignificant. So, you get a clean filter and pan cleaned and reinstalled, the next thing is the flush. The t-teck machine is my fav, what it does is has a ful reservoir of clean and new fluid, and an empty container.....They run the car, allow fluid to pump out, and new fluid to go in....This keeps up until the fluid coming out of the trans system is clean. It really is the best way, I think. The lube shops are the place to get it done, as this job is leak prone, messy and generates lots of fluid to be disposed of.Neither of these processes should be able to cause damage. Sometimes the trans pan leaks, so get it attended to...not a big deal.

check the wheel bearings and drive shafts also does it do it on the same bit of road as the difference on road surfaces can make the tyres sound strange also get the pads on the breaks checked as well hope this helps ivan

The 'freeze plug' is in the block, front and back, not the head.I is a disk if thin steel that is an interference fit and will knock out to be replaced without dismantling the engine. The correct name is Core Plug.

When you ran a test lead from the battery, did you run a separate ground wire to the bulb? If yes -- confirming no ground from the original lamp connection -- try inspecting the body ground closest to the lamp: Remove, clean w/ wire brush or steel wool (both the connector and the nut/bolt holding it to the body), then try again. If still no luck, check ALL the body grounds in the engine compartment. If there's still no ground, try using a "quick splice connector" to connect a grounded bypass cable to the original grounding cable, near the lamp. (These connectors can be tricky. Instructions say you don't need to strip the sheathing on the cables, but I usually cut the sheathing with a knife to make sure there's a good connection.)Regarding HID lamps: for running lights, do the main headlights come on w/ reduced power, or is there a separate lamp? If it's a main headlight, maybe there's an issue w/ a step-down transformer, or whatever system is used to dim the lamp.

Ask Mr Mazda what is wrong as it must be something to do with the Heat of the day or He did something so as he can make MORE money from you. Next time Rotate the tyres yourself as it will only take about half hour and cost nothing. You can than SHOUT yourself a few BEERS this the money you saved

Thats pointing towards the throttle body sensor.

Open the door from the outside and then take off the inner door panel to find the problem. It is usually the door handle that is broken.

Either a bad key or a bad sensor in the dash or where the key switch is that is not getting the signal from the key.

Bleed the clutch fluid to remove the air from the system. Make sure there is no play in the bushes of the gear linkages