20 Most Recent 2003 Mazda 323 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

It could be the starter motor cutting out at that point before the main motor comes on. When it is fine listen for two motors going at the same time. If that is happening the starter motor has not cut out when it should, and the car needs a mechanic, or auto electrician to fix it.

If you mean the check engine light, the computer has found a problem that can affect engine performance or emissions.

remove no 1parp plug and with you finger over the hole turn until you feel pressure under your finger. Watch the timing mark on the harmonic balancer pulley and when it gets to about 10 degrees before the TDC mark then the piston is set to fire . Now position the rotor button facing no 1 plug lead in the cap and put the distributor in the hole . IT may turn the button off position so pull it back out a bit and turn the button off a bit until it lines up with no1 lead when fitted Tighten up the clamp a bit so that you can just turn the body of the distributor . fit all the leads including the coil wire and module wires. Use a timing light and adjust while the engine is idling

what year car. which engine option? low power, ? get it serviced, or DIY , the steps are in the FSM buy the book.

1. bad fuel
2. bad tps.
3. air leaks, if engine is MAF based. too lazy to look, now.
4. clogged injectors
5. low fuel pressures.
6. about 25 more things, non do i guess, ever.
7. bad spark plugs and friends, skipping 60,k mile tuneups? bad boy.
8. battery discharging causing EFI to go nuts?

check fuses, check the check engine light , glowing running? scan it al 1999 here are obd2 cars, and all scan tools here work (USA) this year. so scan it. and see all those errors. post them. list in not ordered, tune up is first.

A belt.

Bypass the relay with a piece of wire, (preferably fused). This means: Remove the relay and put the piece of wire in place of terminal 30 and 87 in the cavity where the relay lives. Even if you don't use a fuse all you are doing is giving the fan the same voltage it would be getting if the relay was closed. If the fan doesn't come on then leave the jumper wire in place and smack the fan motor with something like a screwdriver handle or small hammer with the voltage applied and see if that makes the fan come on. (Stuck fan- replace fan). All electrical diagnoses should come from the relay. It gives you the input and output for the fan. The input is 12v hot on terminal 30. This usually this is constant hot wire from the main buss line on the fuse box. The 87 terminal goes to the fan itself so that the output of this terminal will be a grounded motor waiting for voltage. The 86 wire on this relay is normally fed through the fuse box via the fuel pump fuse and gets voltage when the ignition is turned on. The 85 terminal on the relay is the field ground and energizes the relay. This wire comes from the switch which in this case is the computer or ECM. When the engine gets hot the coolant temperature swich sends a signal to the ECM to ground the relay terminal 85 which colses the points of the relay and allow power to travel from the 30 terminal to the 87 terminal. this gives power from the 30 terminal to the fan at the other end of the 87 terminal. the grounded fan receives this power, begins to spin and cool the engine. By the way relays have a failure rate of about .015% so the problem probably isn't the relay itself. Joe

test the fan for proper function if its burnt anything you do will not make it work so jump power wires to the fan to see if it works you also have a temp sensor that might make the fan work as well if its defective does the temp in the car go up if you have a guage on the dash or a light comes on hot so 1- fuse ok 2- relay is a good working 3- connector at fan ok 4- fan motor working by jumping wires easy to follow diagnostics

The 4 cyl engine has a timing belt.

Hi there Well it sounds like you have either trans oil problem or pump problem or convertor problem but all these will be stopping the the pump in the box from shifting up the last 3 gears as it has to tighten the bands on forward and another for the reverse. Not unless you have a problem with the selector going in to the g/box. Other wise call into the automatic trans people and get it checked before you do internal damage. then it starts getting big $$$$$$$$$$

High and low beam are in the same globe

You almost certainly have a short circuit in your wiring loom, where charge continues to be drawn from the power circuit, even when the ignition is switched off. From your symptoms, I would guess you have sticky relay in the light circuit, which continues to stay connected even when you switch them off. Check your relays in that circuit and replace them. They shouldn't be too expensive..

probably gaskets are not sealed properly you have to redo it or try and cleaned it remove all the oil that sorrounds the engine and try to seal with a high temp silicon

try and bleed the master clutch cylinder theres probably air in your system

what is your current rpm

try replace fuel pump