2005 Lincoln LS V8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Articles and Video https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+Lincoln+LS+V8.+What+causes+the+traction+control+light+to+stay+on ..

it sounds like a bad catalytic convertor get a helper and jack it up get the helper to keep the engine running and feel the convertors with gloves on1 should be really hot and the other cooler the really hot one is the bad one make sure you get the motor up to normal operating temperature before checking

Why , Is the Check engine light on ?

Brake pedal has switch which must be depressed to release shift lock. Find switch and jumper wires to test. Also check adjustment to see that pushing brake activates switch.

Change your thermostat then it will run at the right temp. Unless you have a cracked head or a blown head gasket

Overheating due to bad thermostat or bad radiator cap could cause the problem. The radiator cap vents excessive pressure to the overflow container which should also have fluid in it at all times.

Hi David. I am a big fan of starting with the cheap and simple fixes first. Some people find that a low transmission fluid level caused the problem you described and when they simply added a little transmission fluid, they solved the problem. Like your car oil, transmission oil can get dirty, only with transmission fluid, dirt can clog the filter and the control body of the tranny system. About 70 % of all the auto tranny problems are solved by changing the transmission fluid.

However, on a Lincoln site, one person stated: "I had my tranny fluid changed which made it shift even harder. the mechanic told me to take it to Ford and have them reset the computer. So I pulled the battery cable off for a minute and put it back on to reset the computer. Now the car shifts like it should... Try this first, its free".

On the Lincoln forum, Tom stated, " the Transmission Pressure Control Solenoid Pack needs to be replaced. This seems to be a common issue on the transmission you have. There are 3 pressure control solenoids & 4 shift solenoids in one plastic part ,made by Bosch. You remove the trans pan,the gasket is reuseable silicone You remove the filter, You remove approx 7 -- T30 bolts, holding the solenoid pack & one 10mm electrical connector bolt. HPN-9L2Z7G391A about $400 for the part and add on labor. Add in some new Mercon V and filter kit and your good to go. " Good luck. Good

If you mean the radiator fan, the switch in the engine block that tells the drive train engine module when to shut down is probably bad. This switch/sensor probably needs to be replaced. It is located near the water pump and thermostat.

To in the trunk and look at the hinges there was a sticker on there with the 5 digit code. If gone look on the lock module it is on there with a sticker also

More than likely you need a new starter. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/justin_3ae27a9d61d6acd4

Don't have one.

Try resetting the Inertia switch for the fuelpump. On the drivers side, by the side above the carpet there is a kick panel. Remove the panel and press the button on the switch you see there. This will reactivate the fuelpump. This will work if the engine cranks.If the engine does not crank, check the operation of the brakelights. If the brake lights do not work, some automakers will prevent the engine from cranking by locking out the starter. Others will set it up to allow the engine to start and not go into gear.For this brake related problem, there is a switch on the brake pedal lever which may have been kicked by feet and is either broken or out of adjustment. The engine will crank if it did not crank before once this switch is worked on.

First there is but one water pump, next did you bleed the air out of the cooling system as directed in the factory manual? If you did then the engine may have a leaking head gasket. Water pump picture below. You may also have a leak in the recovery tank, but that would not cause the overheating unless you let it run dray. This engine is very easy to damage if overheated, think you should let an expert look at this problem.

Hi there:DTC P0108 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/BARO Sensor High InputCheck the potential causes of a P0108 code:Bad MAP sensorLeak in vacuum supply line to MAP sensorEngine vacuum leakShort on signal wire to PCMShort on reference voltage wire from PCMOpen in ground circuit to MAPWorn engine causing low vacuumNow, about the possible solutions... a good way to diagnose if the MAP sensor is to blame would be to compare the KOEO (key on engine off) MAP sensor reading on a scan tool with the Barometric pressure reading. They should be the same because they both measure atmospheric pressure.If the MAP reading is greater than 0.5 volt off of the BARO reading, then replacing the MAP sensor would likely fix the problem. Otherwise, start the engine and observe the MAP reading at idle. It should normally be about 1.5 volts (varies according to altitude).a. If it is, the problem is likely intermittent. Check all the vacuum hoses for damage and replace as necessary. You can also try wiggle testing the harness and connector to reproduce the problem.b. If the scan tool MAP reading is more than 4.5 volts, check the actual engine vacuum reading with the engine running. If it is less than 15 or 16 in. Hg, then the PCM is probably not seeing enough vacuum (due to a worn engine, perhaps) for a given operating condition (which causes a higher than normal voltage signal to the PCM) and setting the code. Repair the engine vacuum problem and retest.c. But, if the actual engine vacuum reading is 16 in. Hg or more, then unplug the MAP sensor. The scan tool MAP reading should indicate that there is no voltage present. Check that the ground from the PCM is intact and also that the MAP sensor connector and terminals are tight. If the connection is good, then replace the map sensor.d. However if, with KOEO, & the MAP sensor unplugged, the scan tool shows a voltage reading, then there may be a short in the harness to the MAP sensor. Turn the ignition off. At the PCM unplug connector and remove the MAP signal wire from the connector. Re-attach the PCM connector and see if with KOEO, the scan tool MAP reading shows voltage. If it still does, replace the PCM. If not, check for voltage on the signal wire you just removed from the PCM. If there is voltage on the signal wire, find the short in the harness and repair.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

tell me the codes for @@@@@@ sake give us a hint ,,,, not mind readers ,,, give full story and what ya checked then we might be able to help

The DTE is automatic and is the result of your previous miles per gallon multiplied by the gallons of gas registered in your tank.Unlike the Trip miles, this DTE number can not be reset. It will vary by the fuel mileage per gallon recorded at each startup. That is why if you filled the tank and showed 400DTE you may have had 20 Gallons multiplied by 20 MPG. But if your new average is 16 MPG then it would show 320 DTE.

Hi, This should be verified by either Lincoln or a professionally trained/licensed local mechanic so as to avoid any hazardous issues that might result in the transmission swap. Thank you.

No such thing on your car.The temp sensor tells the computer what the engine coolant temp is.If it were faulty you would get a check engine light.I would have the fuel pressure checked before and after you crank the engine. The pump relay provides power to the pump when you turn the key on to recover some of the lost fuel pressure after the car sits. The one way valve in the pump is supposed to prevent the pressure from dropping. If the fuel pressure drops to zero it could take some time to crank the engine enough to get it back up.

Probably a broken drive belt inside of the radio head unit

What about it ? What do you want to know ?