20 Most Recent 2006 Honda Accord 2.4 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Have you tried leaving the gas cap loose? Also you didn't say how many miles or what model but newer cars have cam position sensors, crank position sensors, map sensors, TPS , etc. My first thought is a worn throttle position sensor or a vacuum hose leak to one of the sensors.

Sounds like a fuse. Can't tell you which one, but check all of the under dash fuses and the two fuse boxes under the hood, too.Here are the two under hood fuse boxes. https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/2000-honda-accord-4dr_exv6-ka-4at/control-unit-engine-room.html?PNC=7 (part 10) https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/2000-honda-accord-4dr_exv6-ka-4at/control-unit-cabin.html?PNC=6 (part 5)

Okay, so now you know not to pull the PCM fuse. It won't reset the codes, the parts stores read and reset codes with codereaders for free. ANYTIME you CEL comes on, take it there and write down the codes.

In most cars newer than about 2000, this triggers the security shutdown. What about a dead battery? Why doesn't that trigger the lockdown? Because the computer monitors battery strength 24/7 and it knows the difference between sudden loss of power and slow ***** of the battery.

So IF that's what happened—and you should ALWAYS put make, model, engine, and year in any question; there is no one-size-fits-all about this kind of stuff—if that's what happened, someone who can access the deep levels of the PCM will have to unlock it. That means dealer or certified master mechanic shop will full repair equipment including computers.

It sounds like the transmission is defective, it is slipping due to worn clutch packs.

Should have kept going-it's just screws or bolts, but some are almost hidden-like front of fender and rear along door opening. Take off fender lining and look some more. I sort of know what you mean-can be hard to get to the door hinges. have you tried like a universal joint in your ratchet and socket?

The fact that you've had no ignition or dashboard lights when you've turned the ignition key is mainly pointing to :

• A failed battery.

• A discharging battery via a failed alternator (the rectifier can burn out, causing the battery to rapidly discharge).

• A 'bad earth'

Start with the easiest thing first. You say that your car started with a boost - a jump start - which suggests that your non-starting problem may be due to the battery or the 'earth'. When you connect another battery to your own via cables, your car is using the other car as an 'earth'. A quick check - if you have battery jump cables - Connect a jump cable to your battery negative terminal - the earth terminal (black cable) and connect the other end to any suitable metal point on the engine/bodywork of your car, and try and start the engine. If it starts, it's now telling you that the problem is that of a bad earth. A 'bad earth' can be caused by corroded cables- check both battery cables for a greenish/blue corrosion and/or broken strands in the wire. Bear in mind that if you disconnect your battery you may lose your radio code. But .. loosen and turn each battery terminal to clean it and fully retighten. Then check the battery earth lead - the black cable - where it attaches to the engine/bodywork. Loosen and clean the cable and attaching bolt. If a car has a 'bad earth' it can cause sluggish/non starting problems. If you're quite happy that the battery terminals, cables and earthing point on the engine/bodywork are clean, tight and ok ... suspect the battery. Don't rush off and buy a new battery. Get somebody to jump start your car and then drive to a workshop and ask them to check it out whilst the battery is in situ - they can also check the alternator output at the same time.