20 Most Recent 2001 Ford Mustang V6 Questions & Answers

The diode in the alternator could be going out.

sounds like the immobilizer is locking out the fuel pump, have you replaced the key without reprogramming it?if so take the old key and the new tape them together at the tops cut portions facing in opposite directions and try starting the car that way the security light should go out

Shaking like as a miss or shaking like a vibration? If it seems like it wants to stall out or pops back when accelerating it more than likely an issue with ignition or a fouled cylinder. If not a cylinder missing its a broken engine or transmission mount

in the engine --spinning main bearing shell in the body , strut upper bearing rubber failure , sway bar bushes , suspension bushes bad exhaust system-- rubber hangers

You need the dealer to run fault code testing on the Transmission control module, you may have an issue with the shift solenoids, the testing will confirm this is the case and not something more serious. Also have you ever had the fluid and filter changed in the transmission? It should be done every 80,000 miles or so (some say 60,000 but I feel that is to soon and a waste of money) sooner for severe service zone driving, that would be hot climates along with allot of commute driving in stop and go traffic conditions.

Front, top of motor, pictures attachedhttps://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRU0mooGtOayalG62aRPr2KTdAIhRypayfKtQrpxEJQRtKTNH1ghttp://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/attachments/2001_00035_04-jpg.64545/http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2031/2342185736_35dd1666cd.jpg

I would recheck them. Check the codes. This will tell you which were crossed.

On some lamps there are long threaded screws which have small octagon fixtures for adjusting the lamps. You will need something to grip the ends and they are around 1/8th or metric. You probably need to crawl under the car to reach them.

There are several systems which control the starter. Stick-shifts may have a starter cut-out switch on the clutch lever. Automatics have a cut-out switch on the brake pedal lever. These switches are easily hit by the drivers feet and rendered inoperative. Check your brakelights if this is an automatic. The idea when these systems were designed is to prevent the car from starting in gear or to lurch. It was thought that requiring your foot to be on the brake pedal or requiring the clutch to be pressed in would disengage the drivetrain or prevent lurching. The alignment of shift linkage can also affect the switches. Usually this is arranged in a trio: brakeswitch, shift lever, and ignition switch or clutchswitch, shift lever, ignition switch. The manufacturers simply want you to have the car in Park or Neutral, clutch depressed, and foot on the brake before turning the ignition to start. You may also need to check the small wires on the starter relay to see if a signal from the trio is getting through. That is what the trio is designed to control.

Starter relay, bad wire going from battery to starter, etc

Should be in the powerbox and sometimes a trio of relays was in a separate smaller powerbox under the hood and hung behind the main powerbox.

My 02 Mustang's light was still on because of the door ajar button. Open the door look at the latch. The latch that goes up and down has a door ajar button hiding near this. It can be hidden by a rubber covering on the side of it. Or you can take the door inner door cover off and try to squirt some oil into the door ajar. You can try oiling it and work it back and forth. Also on the the latches sometimes they dip them in plastic. Mine was loose and would not let the door shut properly. So that was another problem with the light being on. I cut off the pieces that were jamming the latch up.

I would suggest that you take your car to O'rielly's or one of the larger auto parts chain stores and have them connect the diagnostic reader to your car. It sounds to me as though you are experiencing something to do with the cars computer and the way it is reading it's sensors. They will do this for free and then tell you what the error codes mean, if any. If you do receive error codes, chances are that is your problem and you will then be aware of what it is and what it will cost to clear it up and not have some mechanic charging you for his time doing exploratory diagnostics and charging you an arm and a leg just to find out whats wrong.

the codes should be addressed in the order they show up, so starting with the P0443 (it's a zero not an o after the P, the P refers to a powertrain code). Have you replaced the purge valve itself, often times this will rectify the trouble.Open the gas cap after driving a while , do you hear a "whoosh" of pressure release? If so likely the valve itself is defective.Replace it reset the MIL and drive to see if light comes back on, if it does ,rescan to see if 443 is still present, if not then move on to new first trouble code. (fyi) To cause a P0443, there has to be a problem with the purge control CIRCUIT, not necessarily the valve. Usually they are a unit housing the valve and the solenoid as an assembly. Or it could be comprised of a separate solenoid with vacuum lines to a purge valve. That said, it could be any of the following: Bad purge solenoid (internal short or open) Wiring harness chafing or rubbing another component causing short or open on control circuit Connector worn, broken or shorted due to water intrusion

there is unburnt fuel entering the exhaust system caused by abnormal combustion chamber condition on one or more cylinders. Check for air leaks using a smoke machine and replace plugs and leads.

Check for a possible cold start injector problem or a possible motor or transmission mount that is loose or broken.

Bearing inside the trans would be my guess Have to pull it,take completely apart & change all the bearings & hope for the best First I would have the drive shaft checked for being straight & have it balanced 2001-- loose the drive shaft joints Check or replace ALL motor & trans mounts & check any rear axle suspension bushings Standard Trans have issues that require a lot more work to diagnose & find a problem, than an automatic If & when you ever do the clutch, you balance the flywheel, then bolt on the pressure plate & balance the complete assy Do not rule out the rear axle bearings With a 14 year old vehicle,if you do All your own work, you got only things to learn,so replacing a few old worn parts to find a problem, is not really a waste of time or money,because you need to fix the issue & learn something If your paying someone,I would forget all I said