20 Most Recent 2001 Ford Mustang GT - Page 6 Questions & Answers

go to autozone.com troubleshooting put in which fireing order you need it will show a diagram

I tried the DIY service and repair manuals from a website and it actually helped me repair transmission problem in my ford explorer. it wont move forward or reverse, engine is good both solenoids for forward and reverse work. I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and works perfect! got it from www.reliable-store.com

I tried the DIY service and repair manuals from a website and it actually helped me repair transmission problem in my jcb 3cx site-master. it wont move forward or reverse, engine is good both solenoids for forward and reverse work. I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and works perfect! got it from www.reliable-store.com

I recently tried the DIY service and repair manuals from a website and it actually helped me repair transmission problem in my jcb 3cx site-master. it wont move forward or reverse, engine is good both solenoids for forward and reverse work. I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and works perfect! got it from www.reliable-store.com All the best

Try www.reliable-store.com , it's very helpful in repairing your vehicle

Hi Trevor, I would be checking for a vacuum leak/air leak between the cylinder head and the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) sensor, sounds like it is getting unmetered air past the MAF sensor. Running a lean mixture will cause overheating issues and high idle amongst other problems like low power, and rough running. Also check resistance of the MAF sensor and Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), and give MAF a clean with Correct cleaner. Double check and make sure all wiring connections are in properly around fuel system, MAF, TPS, IAC ect. Cheers,

I really don't know a lot about the vehicle you're just driving because your engine but you did say it's a 351 I think you should go to a machine shop because they may be able to fabricate a new intake for that might be your cheapest way to go it might only be 60 or $70 but don't you fix it right

SOUNDS LIKE HEAVY LOAD ON UP DIRECTION. MY GUESS IS A FUSEABLE LINK HEATS UP, STOPS ELECTRICITY, COOLS DOWN AND RECONNECTS. IF UNDER WARRANTY, GO TO SELLER. IF NOT A FREE REPAIR, WITH THE WINDOW DOWN, YOU COULD USE A SILICONE SPRAY ON THE THE VISIBLE WINDOW TRACKS. ALSO YOU COULD HAVE ANOTHER PERSON USE THEIR PALMS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE WINDOW TO ASSIST IN RAISING IT UP A FEW TIMES. IF THESE ACTIONS DON'T CURE THE RESISTANCE THEN A LOCAL MECHANIC OR GLASS INSTALLER COULD INSPECT THE CAUSE.

Do you have spark at any of the plugs ?

Should be a 20amp fuse marked " DRL fog horns " in the engine compartment fuse box.

FREE drawings for you Mustang can found on BBB Industries website... at BBB Industries Premium Alternators Starters Power Steering Products These are REAL documents so REGISTRATION is required I would be looking for that very huge body plug assembly that goes through the fire-wall (is secure)... ALSO check out the TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS (TSBs)... Every time you return from a CIRCUIT it will default you to the TSB listings... Go there... When these MANUFACTURES do the bad thing... all their Apprentice (rookies) start there (good idea). Hope this helps Carnac the Magnificent

Some of the older cars with ignition switches in the steering column use rods to engage a switch in the lower part of the column, usually under the dash. The key switch may have gotten worn enough to get the rods out of alignment or maybe even bent. This is a 22 year old car and things can wear. The key switch may have to be replaced.

You must check the module for moisture or bent pins or not tight enough what size motor is it and who did the rebuild also please try to be more specific right now I don't know what you have in it as a motor and is it a swap from an 6-8 or is it 5.0-4.6 ?

Yes, too lean is the problem. Just means "not enough gas" is flowing. Could be as littlie as a plugged up gas filter or worst scenario, a bad fuel pump. Either way, it isn't getting enough fuel into the engine. When it WAS running, and you pushed the throttle all the way open, it was then getting way too much air for what little fuel was going in. That's why it did what you said.

The twenty amp maxi fuse in the under the hood fuse panel goes to, you guessed it, the fuel pump. It sounds to me like you have a short to ground in the wiring that keeps popping this fuse. Find and fix the short, or you will keep blowing fuses.

This is a Ford specific OBDII code that means either your vacuum control regulator is either faulty or you have a short to ground or a short to power in the circuit. Hope this helps. How to Test the Ford EGR Valve EGR Vacuum Solenoid DPFE Sensor