20 Most Recent 2005 Dodge Stratus Sedan - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Certainly, it points to a bad pressure regulator. Check all connections and pressures. Amclaussen.

Still could be several things, but I think it could be the AIS or Idle control dirty , sticking or failing. Take it out and clean with carburetor solvent. Check for vacuum leaks too. Lastly, verify TPS wiring and connector, then RPM sensor and its wiring. Amclaussen.

"P0440 General EVAP System Failure General system failure. " Revisar tap?n de gasolina, que selle BIEN!, mangueras y c?nister de emisiones evaporativas... ese sistema d? mucha guerra! suerte, Amclaussen.

Steering rack need to be adjusted (stops need adjustment), specially with the relatively narrow Factory tires... it could be that the steering rack has worn mountong bushings or that the car was subjected to an impact or bump-pothole. Check steering rack and engine-transmission-steering subchassis alignment. To do this, you need to raise the four corners of the car on jackstands safely, then get under it with a tape measure and start taking measurements to detect if it has displaced from proper location. Only four large bolts hold it to the rest of the car body, so that it is easy to get it displaced when hard hitting a bump or large/deep pothole. this is part of the safe design of modern cars, so that in case of frontal impact or crash, the entire subchassis displaces to the rear and the engine goes down under the cabin, saving the passengers by absorbing a large part of the impact energy. Some times, surprisingly, a heavy impact with a pohhole displaces the subchassis to the rear on the impact side, and the steering Wheel need to be turned sideway to keep the vehicle going straight, but a Wheel alignement is NOT the proper fix. Measuring and restablishing the proper subchassis distances returns the proper steering, the steering Wheel returns to the exact center without any steering linkage realignmente!: the whole subchassis was displaced, but the suspensi?n kept its alignment! Amclaussen.

Do you mean that it falls down on its iown weight??? In that case (and it happened to me in my 2002 Stratus) the extending gas charged "springs" or struts, leaked gas and were incapable of supporting the lid's weight. This is common. (Chrysler used less than a best-quality parts supplier!). I got the replacement parts (two pieces) at Autozone at a discounted Price, and even bought the ones intended for the sport versi?n that has a spolier on the rear deck, that weights more, because of it, those are stronger (but it could be that in your case it could get the lida little too hard to close, it depends on your stature and weight !, for me the stronger ones are no problem and will endure longer. Replacement is so easy that anyone can do it, or kindly ask your friendly Autozone dealer to please install them, it takes less than a minute per side. Amclaussen.

Is the coolant at the correct level? Any loss of coolant so you must add it (if so, how much and how often). Do you have a air bleed bolt on the engine (usually near the thermostat). This could just be air in the system, which would cause both problems you describe (running hot, no heat). How long does it take to drive it for it reach overheating zone on temp gauge?

The first thing I would have checked is the TPS, ( throttle position sensor ), this is usually the cause of a high idle.

As far as running bad and fake stalling or stalling, there are 2 very common things that can cause that.

1. MAF, ( mass air flow ), sensor. If this is faulty you will have issues like, bad idle, loss of power when accelerating, poor gas mileage, fake stalling and stalling, eventually your engine will not start.

2. Oxygen sensors. Faulty oxygen sensors can cause very similar symptoms as the MAF.

I hope this helps you.

if its a 2.4 i always buy a timing belt and waterpump component kit. some come with cam and crank oil seals. its best to change all these parts at the same time for maximum reliability. then your done instead of one of the components failing a short time later and having to do about the same job all over again. if your car is a 2.7 the water pump is internal, under the timing cover. its driven by the timing chain. a lot more complex and expensive to change on the 2.7. here again you need to replace the related components. i do not consider the 2.4 to be an interference engine, but the 2.7 definitely is

its inside the alternator

you probly have broken wires in the harness that runs from the body to the door. this is a common problem

probly got the timing belt wrong, check and see if you have good compression, if the belt is off the marks the compression will be low

the fuel lines will bleed themselves, a few key on and offs should do the trick

Check either the EGR system, a vacuum leak, or a dirty throttle body.

this sensor is located in the trans bell housing were it bolts to the engine. I think its on the passenger side of the bell housing. it uses the flywheel for locating #1 cylinder for proper firing and it must be gapped properly as this can cause a problem. by gap I mean the distance if sits from the flywheel when installed, they usually send a paper gasket for this purpose with the sensor. it has a I think a 3 wire plug connector attached to it and is held in with 1 bolt.

You may have to try a few times to get the fuel to the engine. Another possible problem is that the fuel pump may have failed. Older pumps can fail if they run dry as they use the fuel in the tank to cool them. If you turn to key to the "on" position without trying to start it, you should hear the fuel pump run (a buzzing noise) for a few seconds. If this is not happening, then the chances are the pump is toast.

you may have a bad key check to see if there is a light lit up on the inst cluster showing a key or security if so the key is no good and it will have to be brought to the dealer to repair this problem.