20 Most Recent 1979 Chrysler Cordoba - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Do you have warranty alternator has 3 years or 60000?

https://fuse-box.info/chrysler/chrysler-town-country-2008-2016-fuses#2010 Also check the relays.

the level of detail is only in the SM, service man. or here. (or test them all the one burned out is it? ) no book needed. yes 02 heaters love to short, it is there "THING" https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

RTM. https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

Hi, a code p1781 means that the pressure switches are opening and closing at the wrong times in one of your gears. I think the best thing to do would be to get the diagnosis for fixing the issue from your dealer but then get the actual work done from a mobile mechanic who should be a lot cheaper to use. Thank you.

no, you have to drop tank

Depends entirely on what level of protection you require and the dilution level of the addative.

You will need to have someone with experience to hear the noise to identify what it is.

when did car last run perfect for you, never, or after hacks? no real problem told ,just a fuse hunt and you have no service manual, USA car. not told nor told , what engine is there size, NAG1 is MB trans. PDC Fuse 37 runs the module transmission control. 15amps fuse battery the relay transmission drive F37 F37 box is not used for RLE box. just Nag1F26 is RLE. so some one put wrong PDC on this car?or RPO shows 42RLE, coded trans, (GM) 42RLE is GMNAG1 iS MB , German box Mercedes NAG1, 722.6, W5A580 ( seen in my Jeep 2010 GC.) here it is for sure and lots more fuse , not just 1. for trans.are you dead sure its NAG1 and not 42RLE boxside of box tells that. TAG.and VIN code too. has trans code.ask your FCA dealer for VIN decode for actual transmission installed new

https://www.300cforums.com/threads/2013-300c-bad-gas-smell.104119/ Read this forum. You can look for a visible leak under the tank hoses and look around the injectors on the motor. Could also be a faulty evap system or a cap that is not tight or not sealing tight.

OK, What exactly does this "Red light" look like? This can be the first clue as to why it won't start. Next, What EXACTLY does it do when you turn the ignition key? NO dash lights and nothing at all from the engine is commonly a flat or bad battery. Dash lights come on but you get a very quiet single 'Click' suggests a bad Starter Relay. Dash lights and a repeating 'Click, click, click' is often a bad starter solenoid. Dash lights and a solid single 'Clunk' is possibly a bad starter motor.

The description for Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1521 is "Incorrect Engine Oil Type." The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is able to identify engine oil viscosity using oil pressure and oil temperature sensor inputs and will set this DTC if the viscosity is determined to be incorrect. Engine oil viscosity could be incorrect due to the wrong engine oil being added or oil contamination (with fuel or coolant). This code could also be set if there is a problem with the engine's internal oil pressure. Lastly, this condition could also be caused by a PCM software issue. There appear to be two software updates to address the false detection of the P1521 DTC; they are on Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) 18-008-08 and 18-035-05. If the software is already up-to-date, I would recommend starting with an oil change using oil with the correct viscosity. You can read about how to interpret engine oil labels (including viscosity rating) here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-read-a-motor-oil-label

ask a shop to take a look, is first.

about $45.00

Adjust your timing

No idea with a good look myself ,yes i do suspect a worn fuel pump but the closing of the bonnet does sound like a loose connection somewhere , i would check battery terminals first ,make sure they go to bottom of battery terminal ,often i find someone has overtightened the nuts on the terminals so the gap is closed up , try undoing the pinch bolt stick a flat blade screwdriver in the slot in the clamp open them up and make sure terminal is all the way over the post and down to the bottom of the post so when you pinch the bolt up there is a gap in the terminal clamp and dont overtighten the pinch bolt ,, another trick i often do is in the under bonnet fuse box take cover off and spray with some WD 40 all over the fuses and relays ,, Yes they do corrode in the wrong climate .. if none of the above works then take vehicle to dealer , hate to say this but even old lags like myself are out of touch with the electronics on modern cars . sorry for the negative answer .

Around the steering ignition switch is a coil ,either its not connected ? been plugged back in or damaged on removal ,another possibility is the chip in the key has been lost or been wiped if left next to a mobile phone ,, older cars did suffer from this depending on make and model .. there is no way it will start if the ring coil is damaged or it hasnt been reconnected .. Only thing i can suggest if the ring is plugged in and i really do hate to say this, and that is take vehicle to main dealer ,,

This may help you find out why it is in limp mode. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hLwE4d7V2E8

There isn't one. Chrysler put everything inside of the tank in one unit. The fuel pump, level sender, pressure regulator, and filter are in one tidy unit.

Q0; BLOWS KEY ON OR OFF OR BOTH????????? WOW KEY FACT (NO PUN) Q1; CAR DRIVES OK,, STARTS AND RUNS. Q2 Head lights bright, key off and on? Q3: car option (automatic temp control head) here?ATCH "no" manual HVAC, HAS RESISTOR BLOCK , so BINGO 3 MTCH IS IT. Q4 No shop service manual, (blind?) dash heater blower stuck (AC on or off) the resistor only causes dead speeds of blower not stuck on. HVAC speed control dead (blower speed) ok I will answer for blower only. all tests, and cures. do you own a voltmeter (DMM) and scan tool? On this car the PCM controls and ATCH if there. AND BCM

1. all fuses good, skip one,
2. remove battery log minus (-) for 1 hour and put it back (resets)
3. OBD2 (USA?) scan tool , will tell you what is wrong if you do.
4. fues23 & 17 MUST BE GOOD TO MTCH
5. the MTCH runs the blower, the resistor only lowers the speeds.
6. THE BCM HAS a high blower output pin the over rides the MTCH. below schem. BCM runs blind doors too,. hvac.
7. BCM has sun sensor if it read too hot blower is set on.
8. AC MODE SWITCH BAD , TO BCM TELLING IT TO BLOW. THIS IS PART OF MTCH.
9. Besides, step 1 and 2 it nut be scanned
10. one can use voltmeter to see if BCM inputs are wrong but lacking the service manual below, that be impossible.

MTCH, MANUAL TEMP CONTROL HEAD.