The term turning over is kinda' subjective to say the least.
To one person it may mean the starter is able to rotate the engine even at a very low speed, but not fast enough to actually start the engine. While another person it may mean normal rotation speed.
Some of the simple things you can check is while you are starting it turn on the dome light. It should dim a little bit but not to darkness or near darkness. That will usually indicate an issue with the battery or possibly the alternator or maybe even wiring.
If there is little to no change in the dome light when trying to start then chances are it's related to the starter.
If it is something related to the battery or alternator then after jump starting it should start.
They are in the exhaust pipe. They are called upstream and downstream. Depending on which one is bad. Upstream before the cat.converter, downstream after the cat.converter
Actually... modern vehicles are quite laden with "orifice tubes"... but by far the most common reference is immediately BEFORE the AIR-CONDITIONING SYSTEMS EVAPORATOR core. It is considered the transition point from the high pressure side to the low pressure side (SUCTION (return to the compressor))... More commonly called the EXPANSION VALVE.
Arguably the SECOND most common failure point in automotive A/C next to the MAIN-SHAFT SEAL of the compressor itself.
Take a look at the eBay link and you will see an array of familiar looking (expansion valve) housings & valve bodies you have seen over the years... Clean work surrounded by fresh seals... all properly tightened.
Don't waste your money if you haven't read the (pretty simple) procedures... Refrigerant can be quite dangerous if mishandled...!!
Likelihood of success is pretty good ...
the real (A/C SERVICE) tools are not cheap... but you can recapture ALL YOUR COSTS on your first couple of jobs.
I had ten reasons for learning A/C.. Ten cars and NO COMPETENT/HONEST air conditioning SERVICE/REPAIR within a 200 mile radius
Hope this helps
Denso 475 4113
See if you can get one from a wrecker. They should have one for a reasonable price and then maybe you can do it or get some one to help you. If you know a body repair man he could possibly fix you up with a used one. I would stay away from a dealer for older car repairs as they tend to be expensive.
Crutchfield CorporationCrutchfield - Seriously into audio since 1974 ..... Find car audio products that work with your Mercury Monterey ... 2004 - 2007 Mercury Monterey: Best Sellers .... time to talk to you through installation snags, troubleshooting, or everyday use.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhSfvjoLGPU
Dec 6, 2012 - Uploaded by Factory Car Stereo Repair
F R E E - R E P A I R - E S T I M A T E S http://www.carstereohelp.com/ford.htm.
IF ANYONE IS WILLING TO ASSIST WITH A FREE ANSWER FOR 04-05 MERC. MONTEREY MINIVAN CRUISE CONTROLL STOPPED WORKING , ( fuse is ok) IT WOULD BE SO APPRECIATED. MY EMAIL IS. [email protected].
The pressure in your fuel injection system is too high. You might need a new fuel pump or fuel regulator. Disconect the fuel line and check the pressure with a gauge {should be about 14 psi}. If it is its the regulator, if not the pump.
This Should NOT Have Happened from Battery Change, But You Now Must See the Dealer to Reset FOB & Lock System they have to Connect it to A Scanner to Reset it
Power doors (and windows) almost always each have their own motors. The fuse could still be good, while the motor is burned out. These things work by the motor running on a track or rail. I think the clicking noise you're hearing, is probably the motor trying to work even though it's not on the track right. It may have jammed or came off entirely. This sounds like a job for a Service tech, mechanic. I wouldn't try to fix it on your own, unless you're familiar with this sort of thing, or aren't afraid to pay for the possible damages odf trying to fix it yourself.
Call Ford-Mercury Service dept.
This should do it
