Top 20 2014 Ford F-350 Super Duty Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. check the link https://www.google.com/search?q=2014+Ford+F-350+Super+Duty.+Turn+signal+flasher+location ..

Something seriously loose or worn: - steering box mounts - steering column universal joint or end clamp - steering box inner ball joints - tie rod ends - outer ball joints - wheel centre hub nut - wheel stud nuts A simple test is to jack up both front wheels and place the vehicle on axle stands. Then have someone hold the steering wheel, grab a front wheel at the 9-and-3 o'clock position, and shake it hard in and out. If you can feel slack or looseness, or the person holding the steering wheel can, you have a dangerous fault which should be fixed ASAP.

Mr. Harris, My advise is to drain the water and fuel mixture from your fuel tank,remove if is easy the fuel tank and completely dry it up,Go by the engine bay and find the fuel pipe which is coming from the tank to the injection system where probably is a fuel filter,renew the fuel filter, blow air in the pipe from the engine side towards the fuel tank-but before you do blow air in the pipe be sure is not connected to the fuel tank,for not sending the water back in. If you did not start the car since water went into fuel,means that you finished with the above,by connecting everything and put fuel in the tank and start the engine. If you did have the engine running when water went into fuel,means that you have to remove the spark plugs and whilst are out and the fuel tank is clean with new fuel and fuel filter make the engine spinning second to second for 2-3 minutes so as the any old fuel to push out from the spark plug holes. After clean your spark plugs or renew them and also before running the engine is good to put an injection cleaner additive in the fuel tank. Better to put fuel up to a quarter of the tank and run it treating all the system.

My initial thought is Aluminum can be welded. Depends on cracks relationship to mounting bolts. Check and see if Bell housing is separate from transmission. May be able to swap bell housings and keep transmission. You may want a good Salvage yard site like Carparts.com. They have a Nationwide link to many Salvagers. One request and you could get 300 responses.

I have replaced one in my ford exp. It was easy but mine was toward front of engine and easy to get to. I am not sure where #10 is on your 350.

Google the question & read up on it Go to You Tube Video & watch All your questions are on the internet Won't be easy, unless you have to experience & touch of a machinist Look at the tool required on the net & see how it is used

Might well be a cam sensor. Located on the front of the engine it is held in by one cap screw and is easy to replace. Most of those were recalled and replaced by Ford but they do go bad from time to time.

just because the rotors are new dosen't mean they come out of the box 100%,you might have one that is running out,causing the pulse,most pften it is recommended to have them turned on a brake lathe prior installation (saves you the trouble of doing the job twice)

The following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.

The engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM or ECM,ECU), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems. Also engine mechanical problems can and do cause many drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other symptoms.

Have the door ajar switches scanned, one may be sticking on.

Think maybe the burnt wires would bea problem !!

I would suggest that this noise is the exhaust cooling down it gets up to 1000F when running and that hot of metal makes noise as it contracts and cools.

No idea maybe DJtech can help on this one as us poor euroepon relatives here in europe couldnt hope to afford the fuel to put in this beast let alone have this sort of info although i have done one of these a few months ago for a millionare but the tight so and so had a gas conversion on it then hid a couple of domestic gas bottles in the back to run it on well hidden they were as this would result in the vehicle being impounded by customs in any EEC country as their is no tax on a domestic gas bottles ,now you know how the rich get richer by being gigger thieves and schemers than the rest of us and use a fancy brief to get them off the hook if and when they do get caught

There are a couple Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) published by Ford Motor Company concerning front-end/driveline shake and noises. One has to do with the companion flange angle on your drive shafts and the other has to do with contact being made with the jounce bumper on the fron axles (4X4 only)My recommendation is to take it to a professional auto repair technician and have him drive it and give you his opinion of whether these TSBs may apply to your situation.

use a good micro spft towel

you have to pull the rear axle, open the rear end and pull the clips or bolt for that axle ane pull the axle out then take a screw driver and pop the wheel seal out, just tap the new weal seal in with a hammer carefull not to bend it and then put the axle back in and the bolt or clips

Wrong place to post this. Try the yellow pages.

have you had the alternator checked to make sure it is turning the right way if so the alt is overcharging and will burn them and the battery both up and there is a possibility of causing the vechicle of catching on fire

All those issues are really simple

You have to completely strip all four brakes
& go from scratch. They are nothing but rust

The parking brake cables most likely needed replacing
20 years ago,rust as well

The ignition switch was worn out decades ago also

The shift indicator is either a small cable behind the indicator
that may need to be replaced or adjusted

Before you can do much with the shift, you will as with everything
else,have to remove all mechanical shift linkage & remove all the
rust & possibly braze in the worn out linkage holes to get ride of play

You have a restoration project just to get it safe & road worthy

I thing you understand all this before you asked the question,
even if it never sat for years. Unless it was inside

I suppose it would have just been out of warranty?
Anyway, it is very easy, because it is just an external, belt driven, pump.
There are just a couple of hoses and the tensioning adjuster, and the hold down bolt.