2011 Subaru Outback - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

ther may be a problem with the valve guide seals, allowing oil to drain into the motor as it sits, when you start is it runs rough until the oil is burnt (the white smoke)

Hello hbretzloff.

Not sure what year, model or engine your Subaru is equipped with.
But here is a beginning for you.

This type of problem can occur in most vehicles. Most often it is a sensor or module that is good when cold but when heated it expands a little and a weak connection expands along with it and opens the circuit.
When it cools it makes contact again and allows the vehicle to start.
When the vehicle is running the cooling system keeps it cool enough to allow it to continue to run. But after you shut it off the heat from the combustion chamber "soaks" out and heats it to the point it opens the circuit. This is called "heat soak" by technicians.

Usually the part that is at fault is close to the engine. A pickup in the distributor, a crank or cam sensor or an ignition module mounted on the engine will often be the culprit.

Tell me your year, model and engine and I will try to help you locate the possible offending part.
You can respond here by replying in "add a comment"

Thank you for using FixYa.
KL

replace the head lamp bulb

Check the fuses, flasher, and realy if equipped.

That cylinder should compress but you will not be able to compress by hand theres a lot of pressure, but if you have it connected to hatch and doesnt compress then the cylinder is on wrong or bad.

that flat 2.5 four cylinder engine is prone to leaking head gaskets. i would rule that out as possibility
as its symptoms are exactly as you describe. if you do it, there is a special subaru coolant additive sold at dealers to put in systems that are not leaking. it will prevent, not repair a leak.

Try checking your timing belt or chain, it may be broke. It is located on the left side of your engine. It has two protection covers, one in the front and one in the back. You can check the one in the front. It just has a bolt or two. Make sure it is not broke or not slipping. It will usually backfire when it is out of time. This may be the problem. If not, is your check engine light on? You need to get a code if possible. It may be a bad sensor or bad spark plug. Have you checked anything on the vehicle yet? Let me know. I am here to help as much as I can. Thanks for choosing FixYa.

It sounds like you covered all the right bases. At this point, you should check all your vacuum hoses and check for a leak.

Even if you do not have your check engine light lit, go to any decent auto parts store and ask to borrow their ECM analyzer. It plugs in on the drivers side in the left knee area. Follow the instructions and see if there any codes or pending codes. This can be a great help.

Get your self some ramps pull the inspection cover off the botton on the car follow the fat hose up to where your themostat is remove hose and empty your block for antifreeze pull off old thermostat remove and replace then on passenger side radiator un screw plastic butter fly antifreeze will come out of there take bottle where antifreeze is and clean take cap off and clean catch all the antifreeze in bottles then you can flush system out drain water out same way when replacing antifreeze you need to open upper heater hose to burp system 50% 50% works fine unless you live here witch I run 75% anti 25% water I also own a 2000 subaru outback loaded

in engine compartement , in front of master cylinder on driver side of the vehicle

on your hood sticker is the directions for replacing the serpintine you can do this just hope its not 30 below when you do it like here

Hi and welcome to FixYa!

I believe that there's no problem with the engine. Looks like that you have a faulty transmission. As a first course of action please replace the transmission fluid. If the fluid is burnt the transmission tends to shift sluggish which can cause a misfire to the engine due to over rev.

Hope this information was helpful enough and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

that is certainly a poser. seems like it would be impossible for them to be on with no switch. my first suspicion would be that someone has installed an incorrect bulb. so first make sure the right bulbs are in there. there are two different but very common tail/brake/flasher light bulbs which fit the same physical socket but are electrically different. so first rule that possibility out.

The electrical item to check is call idle air control valve (IAC).
This valve is small electrical motor that dial up the engine RPM by 100 to 150 rpm.
=====
Clean the end of throttle cable artea with WD-40 or PB Blaster.
This will rule out stuck cable and no allow the IAC to do the fine idle trimming.
====== Warm up the car for 10-15 minutes.
Record the initial rpm.
Slowly turn on load. One at a time.
A/C and fan
low beam on the headlights
hight beam
radio
wiper + washer
========
Te RPM should slowly increase from the basline to 100-150 rpm.
If the car stalled or start running rough then clean / replace the air filter and try again.
Make sure the air tube between the filter box and intake manifold is 100% secure.
====
Please post the test result via email.

I will follow up on this case in the evening.
.

fuel gauges work using a variable resistor. Typically, when the fuel level is low, the fuel level sender is working at a high resistance. When the tank is full, the sender is working with a low resistance. Anything that increases the resistance in the circuitry will lead to a false low reading. Dirty or corroded wire terminals in the fuel sender circuit would raise the resistance. If you can remove the fuel sender unit from the tank, you can use an ohm meter to check its resistance. When the float is low, you should see a resistance of around 100 ohms. When the float is up (tank full) you should see a low resistance of about 2-5 ohms.

You can buy a louder or one that plays music, turn signal relay that is usually by the fuse box or on the drivers side under the dash. It is usually round.

hope this helps couldnt find vaccume hose diagram so i incl intake manifold diagram there is two diagrams side by side

Hello! Here is procedure to remove seats in you Outback...Guru....Saailer

FRONT SEATS

There are 2 bolts in the front, and 2 in the rear.... You'll probably have to pop off some plastic trim to get to the rear bolts....The yellow harness goes to the side airbag. The airbag light will probably go on if you drive with it disconnected, which might disable the system...Disconnect heater connector..



REAR SEATS
Locate the two bolts that are directly below and in front of each rear seat cushion. Unscrew both bolts...Locate the bolt that is attached to the bar holding down the rear seat.... Find it in the crack at the center of the rear seats between the back and seat cushions.... Unscrew the bolt. Locate the bolt that is attached to the bar holding down the rear seat. ... Find it in the crack at the center of the rear seats between the back and seat cushions. Unscrew the bolt.... Push the seat in and then pull it out to release the seat from the bar.... Locate the two bolts that are still holding the seat in, near each of the rear doors.... Unscrew the bolts. Pull the lever on the passenger side in the gap between the back and seat cushions to put both rear seats down.... Grab the seats by the headrests and lift up both sides to remove the seats.... I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

Check the electric cooling fan. It may not be running when it should. Try turning on the a/c to see if it runs then. Could be relay for fan or fan itself.

Probably the linkage alignment leading to the gearbox. Not a job for amateurs.