2011 Subaru Outback - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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Fix your car right away by clicking the link I attached 2011 Subaru Outback 2 5L Workshop Service Repair Manual

The clue is the Check Engine Light (CEL). Get the ECU read for the error code(s). The Cruise light turns on when the ECU detect any error. It may be as simple as a gas cap that is not tight enough.

Go drive it for 20 miles or so as you usually drive it. Do city and highway driving. This re educates the computer.

I doubt it. A faulty thermostat would cause the engine to overheat after a few miles of driving. A faulty cooling fan could cause the engine to overheat and also keep the ac from working. A leaking head gasket could cause overheating, and loss of coolant, but would not affect the ac.

Most cars have a set of rubber plugs conveniently located under the carpet and they go through the floor. You can pull them out from underneath the car, or at worst, by pulling off a couple of panels to get to the carpets. They are usually about 1.5 inches in diameter. If you leave them out of the car for a couple of days depending on the weather, the water will dissipate.

Any good name brand engine oil grade SN. Don't neglect or delay oil changes with this car as the engine will not tolerate that.

Subi's are pretty reliable! You say the motor is struggling, do you mean its still running after the blades have parked? The intermittent is usually operated by a thermal relay built into the wiper motor circuit, you operate the switch, the thermal relay times the wipe action. Do you mean the action is not constant and steady or it does its own thing? If so it may be as simple as trading the wipe delay relay. I don't know where that is on a Subi but its most likely in the panel by your knees? The drivers hand book usually has a fuse box, relay box diagram.

A possibility...Check the charging system, particularly the output of the alternator. If the IC regulator inside the alternator is bad, it can allow charging "power surges". This will blow out the headlights. First chick the headlights to see if it is the 'low beam' setting is blown out simply by turning on the 'hi beams'. If they work, it is a good chance that the alternator is sending charging power surges, knocking out the headlights in 'low-beam' mode. That is because most of the time the headlights are on low beam when driving. This is especially so if both burned out at the same time and this has happened before. Another possibility is: if these are the halogen inserts that install thru the backside of the headlight assembly. it is "crucial" that you do NOT touch the bulb part (front) of the glass. The oils from a persons skin on their fingers is enough to cause an early failure. This is very common so don't feel bad if it happened to you. Good Luck

There is a control module behind the dash that controls all the body electronics. IT is not cheap;.

your best option is to try unbolting the seat from the car to access the latch then pry it open with a screw driverafter its removed you will need to go though the proces to remove the seat cover and repair the release mech.

bad heater coreget to a dealer

First of all, is it still under warranty? It sounds like water or oil in the exhaust. could be several issues, are you losing any oil or water. And yes this is a signal that there is a problem. Take it back to the dealer. You should have at least a five year 60k mile powertrain warranty.

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I fixed one of these recently in a 2003 Outback. The brake light pedal switch feeds the circuit that releases the shift lever lock when it's in Park. (This is why you need to press the brake pedal to shift out of Park.) If the fuse to this circuit is blown, the shift level lock will not release. I traced the issue to the trailer light conversion box (factory/dealer installed, I think). This car has a clear plastic plug that the trailer light conversion box plugs into and the clear plastic plug appears to be a factory-installed part of the wiring harness, accessed on the passenger side of the car, just above the spare tire compartment behind the rear quarter interior panel (you don't need to remove the interior panel to access, just all of the spare tire compartment foam pieces). I've seen these conversion boxes fail before or the wires become shorted somewhere between this internal connection and the trailer pig tail connection end. I unplugged the box from the car's wiring harness at the clear plastic plug mentioned above and the fuse stopped blowing, the brake lights starting working again as well as the turn signal lights and the shift lever unlocked by pressing the brake pedal. This car doesn't tow so it wasn't a problem but you might need to investigate further or replace the conversion box if you need the tow lights connection to operate still.

Most vehicle makers tend to use the same system. The seats are mounted on a pair of slide rails. These are held down by 2 bolts on each rail, one at each end, (one front end and one at the rear end). These bolts are usually covered by a small plastic trim cover that either slides off or unclips to reveal the bolt heads. *** Note * The seats will be heavy so be careful lifting them out.*** It is easiest to unbolt either both rear bolts or both front bolts at the same time as you will probably need to slide the seat for access. I find doing the rear bolts first then the front pair is the easiest method for easier access. There will also be some electrical connectors under the seat for the sensors to be disconnected. Refitting is just as straight forward.

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You will need to have a mechanic with a good scanner interface with your car to retrieve and clear the code. Unlike check engine soft faults, the light cannot be cleared unless the active fault code setting condition is repaired. Some are only in the seat and shoulder belt latches and tensioners, but some are more difficult, like the clockspring in the steering column.

You need to remove the seat bottom first to access the lower attaching points.