Top 20 2011 Subaru Outback Questions & Answers

Fix your car right away by clicking the link I attached 2011 Subaru Outback 2 5L Workshop Service Repair Manual

I doubt it. A faulty thermostat would cause the engine to overheat after a few miles of driving. A faulty cooling fan could cause the engine to overheat and also keep the ac from working. A leaking head gasket could cause overheating, and loss of coolant, but would not affect the ac.

Most cars have a set of rubber plugs conveniently located under the carpet and they go through the floor. You can pull them out from underneath the car, or at worst, by pulling off a couple of panels to get to the carpets. They are usually about 1.5 inches in diameter. If you leave them out of the car for a couple of days depending on the weather, the water will dissipate.

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The clue is the Check Engine Light (CEL). Get the ECU read for the error code(s). The Cruise light turns on when the ECU detect any error. It may be as simple as a gas cap that is not tight enough.

Any good name brand engine oil grade SN. Don't neglect or delay oil changes with this car as the engine will not tolerate that.

Go drive it for 20 miles or so as you usually drive it. Do city and highway driving. This re educates the computer.

Subi's are pretty reliable! You say the motor is struggling, do you mean its still running after the blades have parked? The intermittent is usually operated by a thermal relay built into the wiper motor circuit, you operate the switch, the thermal relay times the wipe action. Do you mean the action is not constant and steady or it does its own thing? If so it may be as simple as trading the wipe delay relay. I don't know where that is on a Subi but its most likely in the panel by your knees? The drivers hand book usually has a fuse box, relay box diagram.

A possibility...Check the charging system, particularly the output of the alternator. If the IC regulator inside the alternator is bad, it can allow charging "power surges". This will blow out the headlights. First chick the headlights to see if it is the 'low beam' setting is blown out simply by turning on the 'hi beams'. If they work, it is a good chance that the alternator is sending charging power surges, knocking out the headlights in 'low-beam' mode. That is because most of the time the headlights are on low beam when driving. This is especially so if both burned out at the same time and this has happened before. Another possibility is: if these are the halogen inserts that install thru the backside of the headlight assembly. it is "crucial" that you do NOT touch the bulb part (front) of the glass. The oils from a persons skin on their fingers is enough to cause an early failure. This is very common so don't feel bad if it happened to you. Good Luck

There is a control module behind the dash that controls all the body electronics. IT is not cheap;.

your best option is to try unbolting the seat from the car to access the latch then pry it open with a screw driverafter its removed you will need to go though the proces to remove the seat cover and repair the release mech.

bad heater coreget to a dealer

First of all, is it still under warranty? It sounds like water or oil in the exhaust. could be several issues, are you losing any oil or water. And yes this is a signal that there is a problem. Take it back to the dealer. You should have at least a five year 60k mile powertrain warranty.

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Most vehicle makers tend to use the same system. The seats are mounted on a pair of slide rails. These are held down by 2 bolts on each rail, one at each end, (one front end and one at the rear end). These bolts are usually covered by a small plastic trim cover that either slides off or unclips to reveal the bolt heads. *** Note * The seats will be heavy so be careful lifting them out.*** It is easiest to unbolt either both rear bolts or both front bolts at the same time as you will probably need to slide the seat for access. I find doing the rear bolts first then the front pair is the easiest method for easier access. There will also be some electrical connectors under the seat for the sensors to be disconnected. Refitting is just as straight forward.

You need to remove the seat bottom first to access the lower attaching points.

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Have you replaced the bulbs? I realize it's unlikely they'd fail @ the same time, but check the Owner's Manual. as they may be connected. I know that the 2005 model had an issue where it would blow/burn-out the headlight bulbs much sooner than it should. Google that issue, too.