20 Most Recent 2011 Subaru Outback Questions & Answers

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The clue is the Check Engine Light (CEL). Get the ECU read for the error code(s). The Cruise light turns on when the ECU detect any error. It may be as simple as a gas cap that is not tight enough.

Go drive it for 20 miles or so as you usually drive it. Do city and highway driving. This re educates the computer.

I doubt it. A faulty thermostat would cause the engine to overheat after a few miles of driving. A faulty cooling fan could cause the engine to overheat and also keep the ac from working. A leaking head gasket could cause overheating, and loss of coolant, but would not affect the ac.

Most cars have a set of rubber plugs conveniently located under the carpet and they go through the floor. You can pull them out from underneath the car, or at worst, by pulling off a couple of panels to get to the carpets. They are usually about 1.5 inches in diameter. If you leave them out of the car for a couple of days depending on the weather, the water will dissipate.

Any good name brand engine oil grade SN. Don't neglect or delay oil changes with this car as the engine will not tolerate that.

Subi's are pretty reliable! You say the motor is struggling, do you mean its still running after the blades have parked? The intermittent is usually operated by a thermal relay built into the wiper motor circuit, you operate the switch, the thermal relay times the wipe action. Do you mean the action is not constant and steady or it does its own thing? If so it may be as simple as trading the wipe delay relay. I don't know where that is on a Subi but its most likely in the panel by your knees? The drivers hand book usually has a fuse box, relay box diagram.

A possibility...Check the charging system, particularly the output of the alternator. If the IC regulator inside the alternator is bad, it can allow charging "power surges". This will blow out the headlights. First chick the headlights to see if it is the 'low beam' setting is blown out simply by turning on the 'hi beams'. If they work, it is a good chance that the alternator is sending charging power surges, knocking out the headlights in 'low-beam' mode. That is because most of the time the headlights are on low beam when driving. This is especially so if both burned out at the same time and this has happened before. Another possibility is: if these are the halogen inserts that install thru the backside of the headlight assembly. it is "crucial" that you do NOT touch the bulb part (front) of the glass. The oils from a persons skin on their fingers is enough to cause an early failure. This is very common so don't feel bad if it happened to you. Good Luck

There is a control module behind the dash that controls all the body electronics. IT is not cheap;.

your best option is to try unbolting the seat from the car to access the latch then pry it open with a screw driverafter its removed you will need to go though the proces to remove the seat cover and repair the release mech.