2011 Kia Sedona - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Try spraying a little bit of WD40 into the key hole and see if it will turn.

Charcoal canisters aren't cheap. If you got a quote from a garage. This is cheap. not your problem though. Brought it to where I work and it was the problem, true problem, the part would cost more than $400. I replaced 1 canister. I have fixed all the rest of them. They are plastic.

How do you know the canister is bad?? There should be no issue with it being a 2011 unless you ran over something and damaged it. There are many things other than the canister that will cause evap leaks/codes. What code led you to the canister replacement idea?

the wire is shorted.trailer hitch hack job.collision damage to rear.? wrecked the harness.why would the flasher be bad, if left side front and rear works perfectlywe use a 15amp circuit breaker to replace the flasher fuse.then find the short, (beaker keeps popping) when right turns are selected.is this car under warranty?did some one put in an illegal larger fuse in this circuit? dontits a simple shorted linewe have a thing (real edison like) called an ammeterwe can measure the actual short, all look here its 15ampsjust as the breaker trips, bingo citythen all we do is start pulling all inline connectors to find the section that is shorted, front or rear.does that help?:

I think your flasher is working properly if its blinking fast while that light is out. I think you may have a grounding issue with the wires on that light. Unplug it again and look all down the wires to see if there are any cracks or brakes. You can take the bulb out and attach the positive lead to the bulb and ground it to the chassis. It should turn on. If it doesn't then your problem is in the positive lead, if it does turn on your problem is with the ground wire.

if you can get the tailgate inner panel off , you may have to cut into it , you should be able to get to the lock mechanism , may be worth contacting KIA as vehicle must still be under warrenty if the 2011 year is accurate

there should be a plastic cap on the sideof the arm rest pop it off and tighten the bolt. I think it is a 16 or 17mm bolt head. if there is no plastic cap you need to unzip the cover and tighten the bolt.

yes you can

Check here.... https://fuse-box.info/kia/kia-sedona-2006-2014-fuses-and-relay Best to you.

The stereo installation's weak connection is the most likely source of this problem. Make sure the wiring harness is secure by inspecting it. If it doesn't work, it could be necessary to disassemble the door panel to check that all the connections are made properly. If the wiring is correct, you might need to consult the vehicle's wiring diagrams to conduct additional troubleshooting.

It is here https://www.justanswer.com/kia/cqmuq-need-head-bolt-torque-specs-2006-kia-sedona-3-8.html and a video as well

vehicle went into imp mode need to have scanned for trouble code[s] since anything can be problem

remove panel and manually open

Look for a broken wire or an incorrect voltage to the sender sensor wire.

Hello. It seems there is an fuel problem with your van. A malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator and/or a cracked vacuum hose connected to that fuel pressure regulator will cause the engine to 'flood' AND run rough. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

Air in the system is what usually causes a caliper to lock up when everything else is functioning properly. If you can't get the air out of the system you will continue to have issues because when the brake system starts getting hot, the air expands inside the brake system causing the weakest brake to be applied. You will need to bleed the brakes once you fix the caliper that is not able to be bled. Remember, bleed the brakes from the farthest wheel from the master cylinder first and then continue to the nearest wheel last.

Replace the switch. The low beam side of the switch isn't making a connection.

for an accurate answer consider adding the year of your vehicle.

If the fuel pump works unhook the fuel line at the fuel rail and slip a neoprene hose over the end put the other end in a container next find the fuel pump relay in the under hood fuse block remove the relay and use a piece of 14 gauge wire to jumper relay cavity #30 to #87 this will turn the fuel pump on if you can't hear the pump run bang on the tank to see if you can make it run. I hope this helps. Take care.

Well, I too had my check engine light come on and P0711. Shifts are still very smooth. I just repaired a shifting problem (a little piece of plastic from the gear shift had fallen off and jammed the button on the side of the shifter). Anyway, I checked trans fluid level (okay) and tomorrow plan on replacing sensor tomorrow. My question is, where is the sensor? Some posts are saying it is inside trans others say it is on top or side of trans, accessible after removing air cleaner housing. Sensor is only about $20 on line. Can anyone tell me if I'm headed in the right direction? thanks