This is likely one of two things: worn rings on the piston, or a slightly poorly-fitting or dirty valve (one or more of the four).
You might, before digging into this, consider running a can or two of a good 'over-the-counter' engine 'restorer' at your next oil change. This may help dissolve any gum or carbon making rings or valves stick. Some fuel treatments may help if there is physical gum or carbon holding a valve slightly off its seat when closed. There are more involved treatments for cleaning valves and upper cylinder 'in situ' -- some of which are somewhat snake-oily.
Note that if rings are causing the problem, you will get 'fluttery' pressurization at the engine-oil fill hole with the engine running, as the 'lost compression' will be blowing into the crankcase volume. You might check by putting a small quantity of non-detergent oil (or diesel fuel) into #4 through the spark-plug hole and bar the engine over a few times to ensure no hydraulic lock. This should improve seal long enough for a compression test. (It will smoke while the oil burns off, but this should not hurt the cat).
On road testing, light haze at start that soon clears up indicates worn valve guides, which might be related to low compression if the bypassed oil has carbonized to hold the affected valve off its seat. Rings might produce haze after high-speed running or heavy acceleration, or produce heavier oil blow into the PCV system (as the oil area is now being pressurized with relatively hot combustion gas).
If it is not rings, and an OTC treatment doesn't solve the problem well, you can take the valve cover off and inspect the valvetrain, stems, and cams to be sure all the valves are working freely, there is no binding holding any one of them slightly off its seat, etc. I suspect that if there is anything going on with valves that a cleaning treatment doesn't fix, you're looking at pulling the head, in which case you should plan for a full valve job (as its costs would be relatively slight in comparison with re-timing, replacing the head gasket, etc.)
It may be in limp mode, please research this, you can remove this mode yourself just do a google search but when a car goes into limp mode it is to protect the car from further damage it is intended for you to drive to a safe place and get the car serviced. have it put one the machine to get problem codes. good luck to you and have a great day. for more detailed help please consult an expert using the link https://www.6ya.com/mr.mike
There is a connector from the steering column to steering gear box. It is metal and rubber often with springs. When it wears out it does what you described.
Try removing the batteries from the key that has been wet.and just use the other key to see if alarm fault occurs. If fault still happens take to local dealer or specialist to.check alarm system.
Removal 1. Remove the radiator grille. 2. Remove the left-hand front wheel. 3. Detach the fender splash shield from the bumper cover and fender (both sides). 4. Remove the air cleaner intake pipe retaining clip. 5. Detach the air cleaner intake pipe from the air cleaner housing.
1 Rotate the pipe clockwise.
2 Detach the pipe. 6. Detach the bumper cover from the fender and support bracket (both sides). 7. Remove the left-hand side bumper retaining nut. 8. Remove the right-hand side bumper retaining nut. 9. Remove the bumper.
Installation 1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Here are a few things to try and get your Ford Key Fob working again:
1) Change the battery
Batteries don't last forever, you'll be surprised how often it's just a dead battery! Click here for a video on how to open a GM key fob, or search our YouTube channel on how to change a battery for your specific year, make, and model!
2) Wipe the board
The board inside your remote can get a lot more filthy than you think! When the board is dirty it can prohibit the contact to the circuit board when you push down on the button. Simply wiping the circuit board off can make your key fob like new again!
3) Get it checked
Go to your local hardware store like AutoZone or Oreilly's. They usually have a RF frequency tester. This little gadget will let you know if your key fob is sending a signal. If it is, you may need to reprogram your key fob to your vehicle
4) The old car battery reset trick
I know this sounds absurd, but it works sometimes and is worth trying. If you exhausted all of the options above, disconnect both terminals on your car battery for 10 minutes. Then reconnect them and try your key fob. This has worked for many people and I have no idea why. If you do, please comment below to explain.
5) New fob!
It might be time for a new key fob! No need to dread over the expensive costs of a new key fob, at Keyless Entry Remote Fob Inc., you can get a refurbished one for a very affordable price! You won't even be able to tell the difference. Just search your vehicle make, model, and year to find your key fob or give us a call at 402-671-5100.
I recently tried the DIY service and repair manuals from a website and it actually helped me repair transmission problem in my jcb 3cx site-master. It would'nt move forward or reverse, engine was good both solenoids for forward and reverse worked, but still couldn't diagnose the problem.
I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and now it works perfect! covers wiring, codes, diagrams, torque specs, PCV, everything
got it from www.reliable-store.com
