20 Most Recent 2011 Ford F-350 Super Duty - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Might well be a cam sensor. Located on the front of the engine it is held in by one cap screw and is easy to replace. Most of those were recalled and replaced by Ford but they do go bad from time to time.

this is a real pain. there are two bolts on top attaching it to the intake manifold and two on the bottom you can seperate the teo parts where the seal is in between

just because the rotors are new dosen't mean they come out of the box 100%,you might have one that is running out,causing the pulse,most pften it is recommended to have them turned on a brake lathe prior installation (saves you the trouble of doing the job twice)

The following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.

The engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM or ECM,ECU), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems. Also engine mechanical problems can and do cause many drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other symptoms.

Think maybe the burnt wires would bea problem !!

I would suggest that this noise is the exhaust cooling down it gets up to 1000F when running and that hot of metal makes noise as it contracts and cools.

Have the door ajar switches scanned, one may be sticking on.

No idea maybe DJtech can help on this one as us poor euroepon relatives here in europe couldnt hope to afford the fuel to put in this beast let alone have this sort of info although i have done one of these a few months ago for a millionare but the tight so and so had a gas conversion on it then hid a couple of domestic gas bottles in the back to run it on well hidden they were as this would result in the vehicle being impounded by customs in any EEC country as their is no tax on a domestic gas bottles ,now you know how the rich get richer by being gigger thieves and schemers than the rest of us and use a fancy brief to get them off the hook if and when they do get caught

use a good micro spft towel

There are a couple Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) published by Ford Motor Company concerning front-end/driveline shake and noises. One has to do with the companion flange angle on your drive shafts and the other has to do with contact being made with the jounce bumper on the fron axles (4X4 only)My recommendation is to take it to a professional auto repair technician and have him drive it and give you his opinion of whether these TSBs may apply to your situation.