20 Most Recent 2011 Ford Escape Questions & Answers

Try starting with the basics. When was it last given a major services? Old spark plugs, dirty air and fuel filters can have a bigger effect on the engine than you would think. Service it anyway then you know that those parts are not the issue. Does it run smoothly at idle and miss when you hit the gas or does it do it all the time?

For the stereo? click he link, for any other part, change the word 'stereo'. https://www.google.com/search?q=2017+ford+escape+radio+wiring+diagram ..

Enter the code to allow the radio to work. Part of the anti theft device. Look at your owners manual for more information.

dealer with vin and proof of ownership

Part of the MAP sensor.

Usually on the transmission. Look for where the shifter connects to the transmission.

Tire pressure sensors are just that, sensitive. If all your tire have the proper pressure and you still are seeing the sensor light and it comes back on after resetting it then the computer sensor monitor is at fault. Unless you can reset your cars' computer you will probably be stuck with going to the dealer for service. Call various other reputable service centers that have certified mechanics before turning out the big green at a FORD dealership though.

There is something wrong or those indicators would not light up. You need the system scanned to see what might be going on. Also this may be a problem Ford is aware of and they have published a technical bulletin on it or a possible recall., contact the dealer for more info..

You have to find the alarm, unplug it or cut the wire to it.

do u mean drive door unlock? if so its f84 20amp. if not there are diagrams on google images

Remote starter in valet mode Symptoms: Lock and Unlock buttons work as normal, but pressing Start does not produce any response from the vehicle. Causes: Someone accidentally pressed the combination of buttons to put the car into valet mode, usually when the remote is in a purse or pocket. Also, many remote car starters will revert to valet mode when the vehicle is disconnected for service. Hood Pin Has Broken or Failed Symptoms: Pressing Start results in several flashes of the parking lights but no start. If equipped, Lock and Unlock still function. Cause: In most cases, the under-hood pin switch is broken or corroded. Remote Control Loses Programming Symptoms: Pressing any button on the remote results in no response from vehicle. Cause: It is rare, but does happen - in most cases, this is caused by a dead battery in the vehicle or the battery having been disconnected when being serviced. Remote starters usually have some type of non-volatile memory to retain things like programming features and remote control codes. Like any "computer" device, sometimes they lose memory. When this happens, simply call the store that installed it for you. In some cases, they may be able to tell you how to reprogram it over the phone. Other times, you will have to return to the store for a technician to program it. In any case, this is rare with higher-end remote starters. Remote is in Second-car Mode Symptoms: Pressing any button on the remote results in no response from vehicle. Causes: A combination of buttons were accidentally pressed, which put the remote in second-car mode. Again, this is very rare, but happens from time to time. Many remote car starter remote controls have the ability to start two vehicles. If the remote is accidentally placed into second-car mode, it will not start or operate vehicle #1. Simply read your owner's manual or call your installer for directions on how to revert the remote back to car #1.

No it doesn't Jack. What a sales manager and me will tell you is 2 different things. It is a computer, just like the one you are typing posts on. They all die. Heat kills them since there are no moving parts. The manager wants your money, I already have to much to do. I do electrical and fix/bypass parts on car computers. Yeah, the whole thing could die tomorrow, but so could your desk top/lap top. Your smart box could have a malfunction. It could be just a corroded plug on the bottom of it also. I have a question, Jack? what did they charge you to diagnose this?

Sometimes. Read your previous question.

Most flashers are built into the hazard switch. If yours was traced to the fuse panel/smart box, but all the lights work. I would leave it. The states that they have to flash. Nothing about how fast or slow they go. I have a car that does the same thing. Checked all the lights, they work..Mine's the hazard switch though.

Could be a faulty gauge, wiring issue or sending unit as well.

https://www.obd-codes.com/p2196

there are diagnostic instructions at the above link

If you start losing your blower fan speeds, it's probably the blower resistor. I changed mine on my 2012 Escape, and saved some instructions and pictures at: http://www.escape-city.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=30645&p=390762#p390762 It's basically behind the glove box. Here is a picture of the old resistor and the part number I used.

If I understand the problem, your blower fan only works on 1 and 4? I had the same problem with my 2012 Escape. As Anonymous indicated, it's the blower resister. (Don't bother with the fan switch). I actually saved some pictures and instructions on how to change it at: http://www.escape-city.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=30645&p=390762#p390762 Here is a picture of my old resistor and the new part number.