2011 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Top off ATF and re-test

there is no adjustment for hydraulic tappets as they are self adjusting from the oil pressure.

check then pedal free play . That is the distance the pedal travels before the brake rod hits the piston in the master cylinder. If there is no play then there is a blockage in the compensating ports that is allowing a build up of pressure in the lines.

Go to www.autozone.com and make a free account, logon to that acount, put in year, make and model and check the free repair guides in the electrical section.

it seems that your axle shafts and such were just changed and the surfaces were never looked at that ate up those seals in the first place.. the brakes are adjusted too tight and this is also causing heat to buld up in the wheels..this can also burn out the seals and cause failure..gotta take it all apart again and check the bearing seal surfaces for any burrs or reasons for these seals to get cut up.. also when reinstalling these put some gear oil on the seal surfaces so they arent dry-ran on the shafts..this will destroy them also.. clean off the oil on the brake surfaces wit carb cleaner so it will evaporate quickly then reassemble..wheels shouild spin freely with little drag on them while turning by hand..

transmission synchronizers most common cause of transmisson noise in certain gears, and not others, might want to check the gear oil level. Transmission rebuild required. To read about them and what they actually do, then here is a good read: When you shift gears in your standard shift car, you move a rod that moves a fork that engages the gear. Depending which gear you're shifting to, a different fork does the job. The fork moves the collar to the desired gear, and dog teeth on the collar mesh up with holes on the gear in order to engage it. You engage reverse gear through a separate, small idler gear. The reverse gear always turns in the opposite direction of the other (forward) gears. In years past, double-clutching was common in order to disengage a gear, allow the collar and next gear to reach the same speed, and then to engage the new gear. To double-clutch shift, you pushed the clutch pedal to free the engine from the transmission. Then the collar moved into neutral. You released the clutch and revved the engine to get it to the right rpm value for the next gear so the collar and the next gear spun at the same rate to allow the dog teeth to engage the gear. When the engine hit the right speed, you depressed the clutch again in order to lock the collar into place on the next gear. Modern cars use synchronizers in order to avoid the need for double-clutching. A synchronizer, or "synchro," lets the collar and gear synchronize their speeds while they're already in contact but before the dog teeth engage. Each manufacturer's synchro is slightly different than the others, but the basic idea is the same. For instance, a cone on one gear will fit into a cone-shaped depression on the collar. The gear and collar synchronize their speeds thanks to the friction between the cone and collar. Then the outer part of the collar moves out of the way so that the gear can be engaged by the dog teeth.

There should be a starter relay under the hood in the fuse box, get someone to bump the key and listen for it to close the circuit. the description should say PCM/ECM/STARTER something along those lines. If it doesn't click you may want to swap it for another in the fuse panel and retry. Be sure to check the fuse for the start circuit. The starter circuit is control by a module so there is no direct wire from the ignition switch straight to the starter. If you hear it click then you may want to use a test light and check for voltage at the starter (small wire on solenoid) while someone else bumps the key.

If you have the 6.0 you likely need a new oil pump, common problem around 150,000 miles.

take the driveshaft loose at the emergency brake drum.. and put the unit in gear.. see if the drum turns..the speedometer should register if it does..in forward..it may be adjusted too tight..with the handle down(loose it should turn stiffly by hand in neutral(not running of course) check to see that the transfer case is not in low-lock..it should be in 2 wheel high for checking..good luck..

It is hard to say without looking at it.. It has to be one or the other. I would go with the cheaper fix then go from there.. Vacuum problems can be hard to find. Look under the dash and have someone move it around while you look and see if it is trying to switch over..

Hook up an OBD-II reader to your truck and pull the fault readings. Once you get the fault readings, you should be able to locate the source of the problem. In the meantime, you can subscribe to online service manual sites at Chiltondiy.com, autozone, alldatadiy.com, RepairSolutions(Innova) where you can get and download your vehicle specs and input fault codes. If this is a serious priority, go to a reputable ASE certified transmission shop- at the very least, pay them to diagnose the problem and if its something you can repair yourself, at least you monetary losses are negligible. You already wasted time and money trying to repair the problem in guesswork. BTW, talking off the top of my head, it could be a bad transfer case control module or a wiring fault.

If any lights on dash first check why. If not try cleaning your throttle body. A dirty butterfly will give wrong TPS readings and cause late shifts around 3000RPM

take it to autozone and have them check your battery for recommended cold cranking amps and have them test your starter and alternator they do it all for free

easy answer call dealer give the them the vin (last 7 should do) and you should have an answer. I would be sure to have your service records in hand when you do drop it off for warranty work,

google the code. lots of help from there

either the bulbs or the dimmer switch in steering column is broken. do you get the click when switching the dimmer and get the blue indicator light?

check your ground wires to your starter from the battery make sure it's clean.

You are expecting a lot from a torque converter to full 2.5 tons at 60 mph. The converter will be a standard unit and will experience considerable slip under these conditions .Run fault codes to ensure that the converter clutch is operational. Talk to an auto transmission shop about a heavy duty converter that is more suited to the job.

Go back to the alternator for the problem as it is connected directly to the battery via the cable. Alternators charge rate is 14.5 to 15.5 volts and if it is only 13.8 volts then that is battery voltage for a good battery and this means that the alternator is not charging which indicates a diode has failed and discharging the battery

Bad connection between batteries and starter. Remove connections, clean with a wire brush and replace.