Top 20 2011 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD - Page 9 Questions & Answers

drive shaft might be bent? have it check and balanced.

Locate the EGR valve on top of the engine.You may have to remove aircleaner ect.It is the round thing that looks like a mushroom. It has a vacuum hose going to it, remove that,take out two bolts and lift it off. Be sure to replace the gasket that should come with the new one. Install it in the reverse order and ta da, You'll look like a genius.

replace turn signal switch

Hello,
The owners manual you requested is available in PDF at this site for free. http://www.ownersmanualsource.com/manual/2006-chevrolet-silverado-owners-manual/

Regards, Tony

with it all the way down push button all the way in then pull up hard on headrest

You going to need a combination switch before anything else check of power to the fuses and before the combination switch its cheaper to replace the flasher and faster too

if power on it its a bad ground from pig taill to trailer or to dome assembly

What you should do, is have the truck diagnosed
for ignition misfires,that effect the knock & O2

try higher amp battery and or a new starter

Welcome to Fixya

Fuel pump is located on top of the gas tank. Fuel tank must be removed in order to get the pump out. If that's the case, you'll have to move the car outdoors and drain the tank first. On your truck, it may be possible to access the pump without removing the tank. Look and see if there is enough room. I would not remove the bed. Much easier to remove the tank, IMO.

Since few vehicles have a drain fitting on the fuel tank, you'll probably have to siphon the fuel out. Don't even think about sucking on a garden hose to do the job. Gasoline can cause cancer. And if you inhale a mouthful into your lungs, it can easily kill you.

Keep in mind that fuel hoses can have residual pressure, as well as fuel that can spill out when it is removed. Eliminate pressure by cracking a fuel line loose near the engine or depressing the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail.

Gas tanks are held in place with straps. Remove the bolts at the ends so the straps come off and the tank can be lowered. First, you'll have to disconnect the battery and raise the rear of the vehicle on wheel ramps. Then remove the fasteners behind the fuel-filler door that hold the fuel-filler neck to the body. Unbolt the tank clamps, then lower the tank slowly to the ground. The combination fuel pump/sending tank unit fits in a 2- to 3-in.-dia. hole on top of the tank. Disconnect any fuel lines and electrical connectors before unfastening the pump.

Some pumps are mounted to the tank with a locking ring that rotates with large pliers. Some are mounted to a hole in the tank with a matching round plate that has five or six screws. After loosening the ring, or removing the screws, carefully lift the pump and sender out of the tank, being careful not to allow dirt and gasket material to fall into the tank.

Never attempt to bench test a new or old pump. In-tank pumps use fuel for cooling and lubrication. Running one while dry will quickly damage it.

To replace the pump, remove the fuel pump socket, fuel pump and pulse damper from the sending unit bracket. Many new pumps come with a new fuel sock and pulse damper as part of a kit. If these items are not with the kit, it's a good idea to replace them anyway. You should also replace any clamps and lengths of flexible fuel hose.

This is the perfect time to inspect the fuel tank. Begin by inspecting and cleaning the area where the pump unit attaches to the tank. Then check the area under the tank straps. Even if the tank didn't leak before, removing the straps often enough loosens corrosion, which can result in pinhole leaks. You also should check all tank seams and make sure the tank isn't dented or creased anywhere.

Before installing the new pump in the tank, attach the in-tank electrical wires. It's critical that the wires be installed in the same manner as the original pump. Often they are soldered. It might be tempting to switch to another type of connection, but, if it was originally soldered, then resolder the new connections.

Next, coat the gasket surface on the pump unit and the gas tank with a gas-proof sealer, then install a new gasket on the tank before fastening the pump unit to the tank. Install the pressure line and return hoses to the outside of the pump unit, then install the outside wires and reattach the tank with the straps and refasten the fuel-filler neck to the body.

Keep in mind that when a pump fails it usually creates excessive current for a while before there are driveability problems. That extra current can cause the points to become blue and overheated in the fuel pump relay and the oil pressure switch, which in turn can raise resistance and lower voltage to the pump. For these reasons, it's a good idea to replace the fuel pump relay and the oil pump switch whenever you replace a bad pump.

Once the pump and related parts are installed and tightened up, add some fuel to the tank, start the engine, check for leaks and perform the previously mentioned fuel pressure checks to make sure the pump is performing to specs.

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It may be the shifting cable is split or out of adjustment. You can check this by going under the truck and disconnection the cable at the lever and seeing if you can shift it through all six detents [ park- reverse- neutral- drive- second- first ], The truck shouldn't be running and the wheels blocked. If it moves through all the stops, then it's the cable.

diagnostic times 3
test truck on its own (never mind the trailer plug) if ok not truck
test trailer on its own (use good batery or charger) if ok not trailer
test truck trailer system now look for cross wire or pinch wire in trailer harness
could also be corosion at rear 6-or-7 way plug causing crssover power
eliminate source one at a time and you will locate problem

DTC P1516 Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position PerformanceYour vehicle has an electronic throttle body unit so it uses voltage signals to control throttle blade in the throttle body. There are a few different issues that can cause this problem. First off there is a update for the PCM to address those codes, but you will have to take it to the dealer for that. Second there is issues with the actuator on the throttle body binding up and causing the codes. Third there is a yellow wire coming off the throttle body connector that breaks inside internally and cannot be seen to the naked eye. The best way to test that is to grab the wire about 5 inches from the connector and tug if it feels spongy or breaks, that

"im sure that you have already checked your battery cables to make sure that they are not coroded, if they are then, they need cleaning, " if battery cables were ok, then check the cable connections to the starter to make sure that they are tight , also as long as your charging light wasn't on, alternator should be fine, then i would remove the starter and take it to a auto parts store and have it checked out, "sounds like a starter armature, and possibly the solenoid is bad too, this way you will know if the starter is bad.

Hi,
if you feel confident in using a digital auto test meter. Disconnect the sensor, and check the value range with the test meter to ensure it is within the set parameters.

However, before embarking on that task. Some ECU's will display a fault code, but will require re-setting to clear the code. With a new sensor fitted the ECU should re-set, although some "hold" the code in memory, it does not come up as a visible fault. Some vehicles can be driven a few miles, then the ECU will learn that the new sensor is within specs and will react accordingly.

I am told the glow plugs heat up in "firing" order, also the Duramax uses a intake air heater to warm the air on cold starts.

in door jam same as interior lite switch

If it was an option the harness is between the cab and the box. The harness is all taped up about 12" in length. You have to crawl under the truck to find it. If the 5th wheel harness was not optioned you will have to use the rear trailer harness that is standard equiment. It is located at the rear of the spare tire or tucked above depending where the truck was made. Good luck Kirk fe6fc

check all the fuses 1st,then if there all good then check the relays,and if there all good,then you will have to check the wires to the blower motor,if its getting electricity,and not spinning then you will have to replace it.and dont forget to check for fusable links that are burnt,could be that also.

bad heater core maybe draining out the a/c drain