Top 20 2011 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD - Page 8 Questions & Answers

have someone inspect the belts, if they are cracked/brittle, replace them. if the belts are in good condition pay someone to replace the entire tensioner, not just the tensioner pulley.

Yours should be 55 to 66 PSI key on engine off. runs at about 60 PSI

Remove your air cleaner and anything else that is in your way. The EGR valve is the mushroom looking thing on top of your intake manifold,or the top of the engine. Remove the vacuum hose and the two bolts. be sure to replace the gasket that comes with the new one.

Hi oakleafwoodw, sounds as if the brake master cylinder has busted a seal allowing the brake fluid to leak by cylinder when you push the brake pedal giving you no or very little pedal pressure....it is located under the hood on the drivers side firewall, you will see all the brake lines attached to it , remove those and the two bolts holding it on,take it with you to auto parts store for a rebuilt one , they will keep your core for rebuilding, other wise you pay a core charge., verify that they have the one you need before hand, get a quart of dot 4 brake fluid, hook it up, and bleed air from the brake lines starting with wheel cylinders in this order Right rear......left rear.....right front.....left front...making sure to keep fluid level topped off in the master cylinder during the whole bleeding process or you will pump air into lines....OK!! caution: you should not drive it until you have good brakes!! you said they still work but if you had to stop suddenly ,it won't do it.

if there is slack in the emergency brake cable it my be a sign that the read brakes are out of adjustment.

The PCM detects that the difference between APP (Accelarator pedal position) sensor 1 and APP sensor 2 is more than the predicted value.
Read more: light code P1125 could you tell me what this code means, I - JustAnswer http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/2r7ma-light-code-p1125-tell-code-means.html#ixzz1W3ksYZCS

Check the cooling fan(s)

Year make model and engine size? Since the turn signals work on the trailer and the brake lights use the exact same wires than th problem has to be on the vehicle side. Have you checked fuses? Once I know what vehicle you have i'll be able to assist you further I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

i would try disconnecting the power train control module and see if it has corrosion in the connectors.if it does have corrosion,clean them with a soft brush and put some dielectric grease on the connectors.i have seen this happen before.hope this helps.good luck.

If it is like the rest of the industry, you have a cable that you unwind with your tire wrench. The cable is usually rusted badly and you need to spray it with penetrating oil and pry on the isdes of the itre with long screwdrivers or breaker bars. If you cna get it to start unwinding, you can lift up and pull down hard on the spare to get it to break the cable loose. If you can get enough looseness you might be able to pry the center bar in the middle of the spare sidways and slip it through the opeoning in the wheel. Or cut the cable if you can get access, then replace it.

I would put some thought into replacing the fan or the fan switch first. If the fan works OK when in heat mode, then i would suspect the A/C controls as what you say tells me the fan is not working. Only forward motion of the car causes air to pass through. Your vehicle has a cabin filter, NAPA part #
4814 but it would surprise me that its being blocked could cause the problem you described. In fact I do not think any cabin filter could be blocked to that extent.

remove gas cap and listen inside tank while another person turns key on if you here a buzzing sound coming from tank the pump will most likely be OK. You can also check for blown fuses or fuel relay fuse

Just put new rubber in my car remote buttons did not work there was a bit of rober stuck in there near the old button

YOU ARE GOOD... THIS IS CONTROLLED BY THE ENGINE COMPUTER. WHEN IT IS COLD IT SHOULD BE HIGHER BUT ONCE WARMED UP, IT WILL DECREASE TO AROUND 500.

the cooling fan dose not work

Won't crank or won't start.

Hello
The noise you hear is not a common issue and must be a very rare problem. The only part that I can fathom that could create such a noise is the part that controls the idle speed of the engine, it is called the Throttle Air Bypass Idle Speed Control Valve (ISC for short), it is controlled by the computer by bypassing air around the throttle valve, it is a it is in effect a metered vacuum leak. I have heard these valves make similar noise to what you described, but without hearing it first hand that is just an educated guess, but I can't really think of anything else that would be noisy like air escaping. The valve is expensive, about $100+ so I would ride with a trained GM technican and see if you can duplicate the noise for him and see if he agrees with my preliminary diagnosis. The valve is located on the throttle body of the engine, it has I believe a four wire oval connector going to it. Below is a picture of the valve and a part number from ACDelco, they have the best price and it is OEM.
ACDELCO Part # 17113598
VALVE,IDLE AIR CONT $100.79

Turn the key on, Dont start. Press the gas pedal three times lowly with in five seconds. It should flash and then go out.

Hi

Please check this helpful link to read the article to get a detailed idea related to your issue,hope it help you troubleshoot your issue considering the probable factors behind your issue :-

http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=289/prd289.htm Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion. Thank you for contacting fixya.com

Actually GM gas engines are 1,3,5,7 on the left and 2,4,6,8 on the right.
The diesel engine is actually just the opposite. 1,3,5,7 are on the right and 2,4,6,8 are on the left