20 Most Recent 2010 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD - Page 6 Questions & Answers

There should be a starter relay under the hood in the fuse box, get someone to bump the key and listen for it to close the circuit. the description should say PCM/ECM/STARTER something along those lines. If it doesn't click you may want to swap it for another in the fuse panel and retry. Be sure to check the fuse for the start circuit. The starter circuit is control by a module so there is no direct wire from the ignition switch straight to the starter. If you hear it click then you may want to use a test light and check for voltage at the starter (small wire on solenoid) while someone else bumps the key.

If you have the 6.0 you likely need a new oil pump, common problem around 150,000 miles.

take the driveshaft loose at the emergency brake drum.. and put the unit in gear.. see if the drum turns..the speedometer should register if it does..in forward..it may be adjusted too tight..with the handle down(loose it should turn stiffly by hand in neutral(not running of course) check to see that the transfer case is not in low-lock..it should be in 2 wheel high for checking..good luck..

It is hard to say without looking at it.. It has to be one or the other. I would go with the cheaper fix then go from there.. Vacuum problems can be hard to find. Look under the dash and have someone move it around while you look and see if it is trying to switch over..

Hook up an OBD-II reader to your truck and pull the fault readings. Once you get the fault readings, you should be able to locate the source of the problem. In the meantime, you can subscribe to online service manual sites at Chiltondiy.com, autozone, alldatadiy.com, RepairSolutions(Innova) where you can get and download your vehicle specs and input fault codes. If this is a serious priority, go to a reputable ASE certified transmission shop- at the very least, pay them to diagnose the problem and if its something you can repair yourself, at least you monetary losses are negligible. You already wasted time and money trying to repair the problem in guesswork. BTW, talking off the top of my head, it could be a bad transfer case control module or a wiring fault.

If any lights on dash first check why. If not try cleaning your throttle body. A dirty butterfly will give wrong TPS readings and cause late shifts around 3000RPM

take it to autozone and have them check your battery for recommended cold cranking amps and have them test your starter and alternator they do it all for free

easy answer call dealer give the them the vin (last 7 should do) and you should have an answer. I would be sure to have your service records in hand when you do drop it off for warranty work,

google the code. lots of help from there

either the bulbs or the dimmer switch in steering column is broken. do you get the click when switching the dimmer and get the blue indicator light?

check your ground wires to your starter from the battery make sure it's clean.

You are expecting a lot from a torque converter to full 2.5 tons at 60 mph. The converter will be a standard unit and will experience considerable slip under these conditions .Run fault codes to ensure that the converter clutch is operational. Talk to an auto transmission shop about a heavy duty converter that is more suited to the job.

DTC P1516 Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position PerformanceYour vehicle has an electronic throttle body unit so it uses voltage signals to control throttle blade in the throttle body. There are a few different issues that can cause this problem. First off there is a update for the PCM to address those codes, but you will have to take it to the dealer for that. Second there is issues with the actuator on the throttle body binding up and causing the codes. Third there is a yellow wire coming off the throttle body connector that breaks inside internally and cannot be seen to the naked eye. The best way to test that is to grab the wire about 5 inches from the connector and tug if it feels spongy or breaks, that