2010 BMW 7 Series - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The gap is .032 if you use an aftermarket plug..

The recommended oem plug is pre-gapped and non adjustable (4 electrode)

If you have more questions.. please include year of car.. or engine model..

Best of luck!

you may refer to the code in the link below:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/49140934/bmw-airbag

I find it odd that there are a lot of error. I would advise to inspect the wiring harness for the airbags unless there is damage in the control unit. I also advise to have the SRS checked out to ensure they are working. I do recommend that the dealer take a look at this as well since the system involved is related to safety.

Intake camsensor bank #1 is located at the back of the right valve cover on the left side above the impulse wheel
Exhaust cam sensor bank #1 is located just to the right of the intake cam sensor no the back of the valve cover
Do you now where # 1 cylinder is that bank one (rule of thumb)

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome to the site. There could be a few different things to check out. First, I need to know exactly what your car is doing please.

you need a special satalite antennae to receive the signal, this means you will need to pay for that satalite tv. if you have a smart phone you can try setting up a video stream over the internet that your smartphone can access. goodluck

Either a freeze plug or a head gasket is leaking back there. The freeze plug looks like a large metal bottle cap without threads, with the flat part pushed into the block first.

Please provide model and year.

Ebay

A 728i? Where do you live? That car has never been available in the US.
In any event, a 2.8 liter BMW engine has a cam chain. If the oil is changed regularly, that chain and the guides should last at least a quarter million miles. The VANOS may not last that long, but cam chains are not a high failure item.

You did not mention your make and model, but this is not an unusual problem. I have replaced both the lock cylinders on my two 1997 328s.
I did a writeup on fixing this problem here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/101-projects-discussion-forum-bmw-3-series-e30-e36-1982-2000/411889-tech-tip-ignition-lock-housing-replacement.html
You will need to paste this link into your browser to get rid of the carriage return in the middle of the address.

yea i think those prices are for a synthetic oil change because thats a lot to charge. that year and model just use regular oil. if yr boyfrind has changed oil before he should be able to change this one the only thing on this one is the oil filtor is not a spin on filtor its inside a aluminum housing on the drivers side of the engine and to take it off is just one big nut that u loosen from the top. all the rest is the same as any other oil change. just let me know if you have any other questions

wheel tracking is out. Take it to a tyre dealer who will sort it

Volvo's do the same thing. You have to reset the computer when you get a new battery. Go to autozone and they will scan your car and clear your codes for free. That should fix the problem. If it doesn't post the question again.

Oil will collect condensation if left sitting for a few days and even more if sitting for longer periods. Engines are meant to run and not to sit doing nothing. Moister will collect on the upper part of the engine componets easier were oil does not stay. Run to engine for at least 15 minutes per day or until the temp range is at the normal setting. After a week or so the ticking noise maybe gone hopefully. If not a weak lifter is most likely the problem

There are multiple frost plugs 2 per side on block, 2 front & rear on block and front and rear on each head.

Your car is in "LIMP" mode. The computer sensed a fault from transmission and has set it in "LIMP" mode so it's still drivable but it needs to be inspected by BMW. It could be something as simple as a dirty connection or moisture or possible early warning a more serious issues, but have BMW dealer look at it before it gets REALLY costly and leaves you stranded.

Have you tried anything?

need more info - year, model & type of trans...

Hi, I recommend you check the fuel pressure regulator for a torn diaphram. The regulator is at the fuel rail on top of the engine and looks like the picture below. Pull the vacuum hose off the regulator and plug it with a golf tee. Then start the engine and watch for fuel to come out of the vacuum port of the regulator. If fuel comes out, replace the regulator and the car should run much better. Please let me know if this isn't the problem or if you have any other questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

its a possibility that the blend door actuator in heater, is either broken or is sticking. its inside heater box. go to any auto parts store to purchase a haynes manual for your car for about 25.00. they are based on a complete teardown of vehicle. if you cant find info. go to dealership and they should be able to set ya straight. have a good day !