Top 20 2010 BMW 7 Series - Page 3 Questions & Answers

yea i think those prices are for a synthetic oil change because thats a lot to charge. that year and model just use regular oil. if yr boyfrind has changed oil before he should be able to change this one the only thing on this one is the oil filtor is not a spin on filtor its inside a aluminum housing on the drivers side of the engine and to take it off is just one big nut that u loosen from the top. all the rest is the same as any other oil change. just let me know if you have any other questions

you need a special satalite antennae to receive the signal, this means you will need to pay for that satalite tv. if you have a smart phone you can try setting up a video stream over the internet that your smartphone can access. goodluck

Volvo's do the same thing. You have to reset the computer when you get a new battery. Go to autozone and they will scan your car and clear your codes for free. That should fix the problem. If it doesn't post the question again.

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Either a freeze plug or a head gasket is leaking back there. The freeze plug looks like a large metal bottle cap without threads, with the flat part pushed into the block first.

loosen the OIL cap when the car is running,if the idle picks up and it starts to run better then the crank case valve on the back of the intake manifold is bad and needs to be replaced

1. Remove bumper.
2. Pop off the grills. Easy to reach everything with the bumper off.
3. Take off the plastic fan cover.
4. Slide the latch cover off the bottom and reach up inside and pull the latch release.

You did not mention your make and model, but this is not an unusual problem. I have replaced both the lock cylinders on my two 1997 328s.
I did a writeup on fixing this problem here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/101-projects-discussion-forum-bmw-3-series-e30-e36-1982-2000/411889-tech-tip-ignition-lock-housing-replacement.html
You will need to paste this link into your browser to get rid of the carriage return in the middle of the address.

Oil will collect condensation if left sitting for a few days and even more if sitting for longer periods. Engines are meant to run and not to sit doing nothing. Moister will collect on the upper part of the engine componets easier were oil does not stay. Run to engine for at least 15 minutes per day or until the temp range is at the normal setting. After a week or so the ticking noise maybe gone hopefully. If not a weak lifter is most likely the problem

Please provide model and year.

Have you tried anything?

if the temp guage is going high when engine is cold its the cable attached to the temp sensor touching the body at some point

if the engine is hot see if the radiator fan starts running if not see the cables that are attached to the fan and also see the thermostat

Did you put cheap gas in it recently or lower octane rated gas? Also, make sure your gas cap is on tightly.

If the cheap and easy answers aren't working, I would get a Peake code reader and see what the errors are (you may have a misfire). I wish I could give you more but this is a good start in determining what is going on, there are so many reasons why this is happening and by having the code reader you'll be able to isolate the problem better. The Peake reader gives you more specifics on the errors since it's specifically designed for BMWs.

Hop this helps!

its a possibility that the blend door actuator in heater, is either broken or is sticking. its inside heater box. go to any auto parts store to purchase a haynes manual for your car for about 25.00. they are based on a complete teardown of vehicle. if you cant find info. go to dealership and they should be able to set ya straight. have a good day !

The first thing that you should check is the crankcase ventilation system. You have to be sure that all the tubing and the oil separator and its drain tube are clear and clean. On a 14 year-old car with ~200k miles on it? You are due to need to have that system cleaned out.
If that is not the problem, the prognosis is not good. The other likely problems are all expensive.

Hi, I recommend you check the fuel pressure regulator for a torn diaphram. The regulator is at the fuel rail on top of the engine and looks like the picture below. Pull the vacuum hose off the regulator and plug it with a golf tee. Then start the engine and watch for fuel to come out of the vacuum port of the regulator. If fuel comes out, replace the regulator and the car should run much better. Please let me know if this isn't the problem or if you have any other questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

http://www.gates.com/common/part_locator/view_diagram.cfm?id=S3002

There are multiple frost plugs 2 per side on block, 2 front & rear on block and front and rear on each head.

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome to the site. There could be a few different things to check out. First, I need to know exactly what your car is doing please.

i ahve one but i cannot upload a pdf document ,sorry