Top 20 2010 BMW 7 Series Questions & Answers

This is why I do not own a BMW. If you do not have the manual, download it from here: http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Content/Owner/OwnersManualVideos.aspx?namodelcode=1074 You need to locate the two fuse blocks, and a 'separate sheet' listing the fuse block function and amperage. Locate the lighter plug, then reference the location and value for replacement. Good luck.

might be a simple as a fuse so i'd check the fuse box first ,your owners manual will have the relevent details

Could be your cylinder head gasket has blown. Check your water and oil, have they mixed and are the levels down. If so you need to replace the gasket. Don't run it again until you're sure. It could wreck your engine.

I have a new battery and when I park the car the batt goes dead

It could be the petrol filter. Also check the air mass sensor and the air filter. First thing to do is a electronic check-up.

limited info generic answer --possible in limp mode have vehicle scanned for any trouble codes

I believe it's right next to the dipstick on the block, attached with a 5mm hex bolt. Linked DIY should help. BMWTips M62 Camshaft Position Sensor CPS replacement

somthing inside your car is puling amps

You would need a obd2 compatible scanner. You can try disconnecting the battery for 15-20 mins but I don't think that will help you. Did you check if you are getting power to the starter motor?

HI SOUNDS LIKE THE CRANKSHAFT SENSOR

check the latch that SHOULD close around the striker. They sometimes get closed and will not function. lift the handle as if you are opening it and poke a screwdriver at the latch. It's pretty easy to figure out how it should work. Hope this helps.

have you looked down by the drivers side foot well as there is sometimes a fusebox in there for lights etc

It sounds like vacuum is not getting to the vent, heat and A/C controls. Find the vacuum can. It may be under the hood on one of the inner fenders. The "one-way" check valve is usually located in the line and close to the can, make sure it works properly. The valve could be the very thing that's causing the problem. Trace the lines back to the vacuum block at the intake manifold or fire-wall, and also back to where the line goes thru the fire-wall. Check the can for leaks or obvious holes. They used to be just a plain metal can, but it could be a plastic ball. Check the lines as you go, for breaks and rub-thru's. Move the controls thru all settings and listen for vent door movement. Worst case is a bad vacuum motor or air flow position selector switch, and/or a faulty Blend Door Actuator. If you have been driving around with the Temperature knob or control set at the same spot for months, move it from fully cold to fully hot several times and wait for the air temperature to change each time. This will help reset the blend door and vacuum control system. Hope this helps... Let me know what you find.

Might be the Resistor pack located close to the blower. It has a flat connector with 4 or 5 wires, and two small screws holding in the duct. It may be a crispy critter. It happens... The blower moves air across it to keep it cool. The blower motor may be bad as well, or possibly the fan speed switch. May very well be the fuse for the blower as well. The blower connector may be loose. Let me know what you find.

The most common cause of no- or low- oil pressure indications isn't the failure of the oil pump or a blocked filter (these all have bypasses) but the failure of the sender/sensor providing the input for the sensing circuit. Apparently, this also applies to the top-end cars as well. Oil pressure gauges showing an actual range of pressures are far more reliable but more costly to make.
The majority of sensors used are primitive devices using a disk of metal that 'clicks' at pressures above a few pounds to keep the warning away and when these fail, they generally close a conductive path to 'send' the no- or low- pressure signal for the warning.
These are normally not costly items to replace.

http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/Locked.htm

here are many solutions.

to do this you need to remove the two hoses that go into the firewall (to the heater core) and figure out a way to join them-using a pipe and clamps is the most common method.

Intake camsensor bank #1 is located at the back of the right valve cover on the left side above the impulse wheel
Exhaust cam sensor bank #1 is located just to the right of the intake cam sensor no the back of the valve cover
Do you now where # 1 cylinder is that bank one (rule of thumb)

• There are two Camshaft position sensors. The one this is for is the one by the oil dipstick on the LH side of the engine. If you replaced the other you need to replace this one as well. Both are recommended, in other words when changing one it is recommended to change the other as well.
• If you have any further questions or comments please feel free to ask and thank you for using FixYa.

• That being said I sat in a chat and waited for a response from you for 12 minutes. I hope this answers your question.

Regards, Tony

You just logged this as a separate question. Please use comments when replying so we can keep everything in one place :-)

I really cant advise at this stage, mainly because I don't know the age of your car, it's value or the value of a replacement engine (I'm in the UK, HUGE price differences on these things).

If it IS a case of exhaust valve cleaning, I can't believe it would cost that much (Though, I'm not familiar with BMW Wankel engines, I have to admit).

I still think that you need to get a second opinion from an independant garage. Don't worry about how enbarrassing this is, it's a business and they will just have to tollerate it. Go in to the dealership. Ask "what the ECU falt codes show" and make a note of the error codes (The dealer will understand this and should give you some error codes). Then find an independant, tell them what has happened and what the dealer has said and if they think there is a more cost effective option.

If there is, then get your vehicle out of the dealer and get the independant to do it.

You are saying "rebuild the engine" as an alternative to what the dealer is suggesting, but the dealer is in fact suggesting a partial rebuild here, so what you are saying doesn't make a lot of sense I'm afraid.

What you need is someone to understand the fault. Explain it to you in layments terms and tell you what needs to be done. They also need to tell you if there are alternatives (For instance, an independant may be able to find an identical used engine from an accident damaged car and fit it for less than the repair.