20 Most Recent 2011 BMW 3 Series - Page 8 Questions & Answers

i would check the plugs make sure got fire at every plug then check the dist cap sounds like a spark problem

Sounds very much like the air mass sensor is not right. This is found on a collar on the air ducting immediately after the air filter box. It ahas an electrical connection running to it. Whilst the engine is warm at running at idle (surge and slow) disconnect the electrical plug. Do not worry this will in no way harm the engine. The engine should soon resume a steady rate. It might be higher or lower than normal but it will be steady. If this happens then it is a certainty that the air mass sensor is at fault and should be replaced.

I suggest to get diagnostics done first, than change the timing belt as it pretty much looks like your timing has jumped over a tooth.

First of all try to Jump Start it first to see if it will start, and than if you have strange codes after that we can try to diagnose it.

The fuel filter is generally in the same location for all of the cars - located on the left side of the car, somewhat underneath the engine.The fuel pump is located in the top of the tank, and pumps fuel out the top as well. For exact step by step instructions on how to replace fuel filter.please click on the link below:-- http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Fuel-Filter/E36-Fuel-Filter.htm ----------- Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

yes i think so

a hitch...why,... you don't like the transmission? You have an extra one and are just dying to install it after this one goes **** up.

brown=ground on all german cars

red, black=power

I had a similar problem. The power loss is very common. I finally got tired of it all and hired a lemon law attorney. BMW bought back my vehicle. http://www.attorneyforcalifornialemonlaw.com

hi this is not an answer but more of a clarrification, could you tell me what year the car is and what modle ie 325 330 etc, so i can help you thanks

with engine idling at normal temp open top of filler and top up to between marks, occaisonally turning steering from lock to lock.

If prop shaft is turning you obviously have a differential problem, open it up and have a look

19" s
baller

Hi.

There is a fuse for the central locking, check the user manual and find the fuse.

If the fuse blows again , then it is one of the actuators in the door, that is shorted and must be replaced.

If the fuse is OK and the central locking still does not work, then there is a switch module.

If that does not work you can also try disconnecting the battery cable for one minute. You will need anti theft code for the stereo afterwards.

The central lock in known for having problems in the 2004-2006 Executive models (eg. E90 , E46). If you have one of those models, step at the nearest dealer and ask if the control module may need replacement.

Check fuse first.

Regards.

Before you remove them, if your car is starting ok and idling smoothly on all cylinders they will be ok. If you have a misfire for 15 or so seconds, one of your heaters might be duff. If the car is difficult to start and is very rough to begin with, you have two out. (This is assuming your injectors are in good condition because they can give trouble on cold starts also.) The easiest way to find a bad heater is to remove the strap or cable that connects them all and using a multi meter check each one. The one that gives no reading is your problem. If you get your replacement from a spares shop you will pay a fraction of the manufacturers price. (Replace all four if you can afford it. It will save you the bother of having to to the job again in a couple of months and it will give you some spares for an emergency.)

Should be a 318i, what is the year? Have you checked relays, and depending on the year, these cars have ews modules that is a bit tricky to bypass. Unless your experienced at this on BMWs do not bypass ignition system. Hook the system back up using the factory key and try again.