20 Most Recent 2008 Audi A3 Questions & Answers

unlikely but the tow bar shop will have a harness that simply clips in to the existing harness as a piggy back arrangement as the shop to have it fitted when you get the bar fitted as a tow bar is a modification to the original vehicle specifications , you will need a modification plate to make the fitment legal and that is supplied by the shop doing the modification

CHECK FUSES FIRST.THE CAR CRANKS BUT DOES NOT RUN??WHAT DOES IT DO EXACTLY??

No.# 31 fuse (25A - white colour) placed in the engine bay fuse box / relay plate, is for the front windscreen wipers for an Audi A3 2005 2.0 TDI. See pictures below:

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clutch problems ae indicated by slipping ( engine rpms rising but not going ant where), slipping may be a faulty clutch master cylinder, shuddering as you let the clutch out ( clutch plate covered with grease /oil ---OR--- faulty engine mounts. pedal to the floor is a problem in the hydraulics or a cable failure. A cable failed and jammed will also cause a slipping clutch so to summerise ,if the clutch is slipping --check out the hydraulics and cables. If it is shuddering --check out the engine mounts. Basically if it starts to slip after being driven for a period of time then it will be the clutch pressure plate /clutch plate worn

I'm not sure. You should try turning the ignition on and see if it will release a lock on the clutch or something.Maybe, if the car is in neutral, you should try starting it. the gears may become locked as a safety feature like the steering lock. id definitely try turning the ignition on first though.

Did you look for fuses.Sometimes you mite have to bump it,it mite be stuck,if not the motor gone

check the front wiper fuse .

How to get to the air filter of a 2004 Audi A4

Take out the 2 screws at the red arrows. And then pull the top back towards the engine (as indicated by the middle red arrow). Disregard the yellow arrow.

Happened to me too, when the ECO light comes on automaticly (and it only blows hot air) it means it's simply broke.

I don't know the exact production date of your car, but there is/was an airco-related dealer recall for some cars, so just contact your dealer and have it fixed, but don't forget to mention the recall (it might save you a lot of money when your warranty has already expired).

You can find an instruction video on how to change an air filter at: http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-change-your-air-filter

I'm not sure wether you mean 1) "changing the original filter for a fresh one" or 2) "change the air filter to a different sporty type" (like i.e. an open air filter).

Either way it's pretty simple: the most important part is finding the correct filter for your car (model, type, year). A paper replacement filter (the same as the factory one) costs around 20 euro's and lasts around 30 000km, a more sporty cotton/foam one with improved airflow and durability costs around 60~70 euro (will last a life time, although needs cleaning every 50 000km) and might sound a little sportier.

Then find the airbox (which in your case is the big box on right with a big hose on the left, in front of the battery, can't miss). Unscrew the 3 bolds, remove the top and you'll see the air filter. Unscrew the placeholder on the left and the air filter will just pop out. Then pop in the replacement part and screw everything back. It's a simple, clean 5 minute job.

Replacing the whole airbox unit for an open filter is nearly as simple; get the correct replacement filter, unscrew the original airbox and screw the new one in place (following the directions which come with the replacement part). This is a 15 minute job, but still pretty simple and might have a noticable effect on performance (better throttle-response and 2~6 hp more). This looks something like: http://i42.tinypic.com/2yopqwj.jpg (the purple filter being the aftermarket K&N air filter).

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Check out the videos, and also already answered on Fixya https://www.fixya.com/cars/t6734476-crank_sensor https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+audi+A3+2.0+tdi.+crankshaft+sensor+location ..

NO THE PROBABLE CAUSE IS A VALVE THAT ADJUSTS THE TURBO PRESSURE!CHECK FOR DTCS FIRST AND LET ME KNOW!!

The following asumes only one wheel is hot and the e-brake is not engaged or possibly hung up from having been left on while the car was not driven for a while. Up north, BMW (Audi ?) brake disks tend to start rusting after about a week of inactivity. For a hung up e-brake, it is sometimes necessary to go back and forth to break the corrosion. A hot wheel usually indicates that the brake pad is dragging (i.e. the brake caliper piston is not returning into the brake caliper bore). A couple of checks: measure the brake disk temperature with a temperature gun on both brake disks of the same axle. If one is much higher, the caliper piston is probably sticking. Can also check for relatively large temperature difference with your hand-just do not touch the metal or you will get burned. Look at the brake disk for evidence of the outline of the brake pad that may have transferred to it indicating a very hot brake disk. Chock the car well, put into neutral with e-brake off, jack up "hot wheel" side and try to spin the tire. If a lot of drag, sticking caliper piston. Caliper replacement or disassembly for a thorough cleaning will probably be required. If this is necessary, you should do both brake disks and pads and consider doing both calipers on that axle depending on age and corrosion condition.