20 Most Recent 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

maybe the leak is not in the cam or crank oil seals. i have the same car, found out the leak is coming from the valve cover and crank case (oilpan).

go to the dealer for a calibration..

Not 100% sure on that particular model but usually you either have a couple of bolts at front of seat down close to floor to remove, one on each side, and if no bolts, you grab front of rear seat, push back on it hard & lift, usually a catch on each side.

Try operating the lock with the key to make sure that the mechanism fully reset itself. Check the striker part of the latch for any looseness. Make sure the hinge bolts are tight and the lid is undamaged.

check under the hood for a relay fuse.

I already replied to this and offered that you should tie the exhaust temporarily to see if the noise ceases!

Andrew

Power to most radios is the red wire and ground is black. Do not mix up the two and make sure your plugs match "red for red" and "black to black" (the ground some times will also be green). If not you can blow a fuse in your box which you might need to check. If you have a meter you can check your car harness plug to see if you have 12 volts on your red coming out. If not make sure your fuse is good and you have the power on in the car (key turned backwards on most cars will power the harness if not turn if forward like you are going to crank it. If you are not sure the radio is good, you can pop the hood of your car and hook up the red wire from the radio to positive side of the battery cable and the black to the ground side of the battery cable and you should be able to turn the radio on. If you see it power up, you will know your problem is in your harness. Hope this helps

This requires axle removal ,then the sealed bearings inside the hub can be driven out with a long punch and heavy mallet.

Your first code is for low system voltage. If your battery has needed a jumpstart lately or replacement, this code will be set.

The second two codes are in relation to your rh side airbag (B1C2D) and curtain bag (B1B22) not being visible to the srs ecu. Has the car been apart for any reason, possible leaving harnesses unplugged? Was it in an accident recently and maybe the bags are missing? Were components removed for accessory installations (stereo, subwoofers, etc)?
The connector for the curtain bag is in the passenger side rear most pillar. The connector for the side airbag is under the passenger seat.

A weak battery can sometimes throw other miscellaneous codes like these, but it is not likely. If you clear the codes, the B1C2D and B1B22 should come right back.
If they do, and both bags are installed correctly, You can bypass them with a 3 ohm (three ohm) resistor and clear the code again. If the codes set again, there is a problem with the wiring leading up to the squib units. If the codes do not set again, there is a problem with the squib units.

they come off the distributor cap to the plugs

The bearings are not serviced, just the whole unit, but if you remove them a bearing supply can match them up.

Repair Manuals for the Lancer is like Hen`s teeth, however in your case look for the obvious replace the fuel filter, check the air filter also, start with the simple problems first

super easy my friend, and it won't cost you a thing, just go to your local autozone,advance,and I think NAPA, and they will run a decoder, that plugs into a port, under the dash usually around the steering wheel, and any "error" codes it throws, they will be able to tell you, and if it is just a "fluke", they can reset it for ya, god bless and happy motoring............

Usually a P0705 means your TRS (transmission range sensor) is shot. It is what looks like an old backup light/neutral safety switch and is attached to the transmission where the shift lever goes in. .

i knew it was either a screw or a clip ,just required a bit of brute force to push the panel away far enough from the handle to see the clip ,by which time i got a reply from fixya confirming my action but gota say its great to know theres someone there to help if you need it, thank you !

Using a small flat bladed screw driver spread a gap between winder and backing plate look between and you will see the clip with another screw driver ease forward till it pops off! Easy! Fitting is reversal of removal but put clip back on winder and push on till clicks in place oh dont forget backing plate!!!!

the dash lamp marked SECURITY IS DEAD all the time.keyon and off? fuse #2 missing,(security fuse)? remove the remote battery so the bad buttons in FOB do not trip the alarm I',m sure you mean factory alarm is in the car. in USA we can scan the OBD2 port and see why any alarm tripped. lots of ways there are, door switches, etc. lost the users manual tell you on most cars the alarm need be enabled. and how. most say , open the door with good fob. then do not lock the door using fob and alarm is not active. but with a dead fob how? (car came new with 2 fobs) lost 2nd? my answers are for USA spec cars only, not world wide. ever. doors with keyless entry system is what they call this. fob locks. simple have you examined the whole car for wiriing harness hacks that put in any kind of 1000 aftermarket alarms here, this is first. is the horn honking? the same horn the steering well uses or some other horn hacked in to car. ( we inspect all this first) the factory ETACS as its own fob RECEIVE inside (antanna) there are 3 fuses to ETACS. fuse 22 do not pull that it kills vast other things too. Fuse 2 and fuse 15 goes there but not sure what happens pulled but seems the interior door lock buttons go dead. doing that.. here is my only cure. pull the battery NEG lug for 1hour, or more even overnight see if ETACS , resets (well it sure will) but do so and not go into alarm and first remove the FOB battery (on all fobs for this car) see fob guts below 1 coin cell there , remove it, now bad buttons do not cause system to fail. open doors only with metal key. all instructions for this car assume the below is not bad. and buttons love to fail even SHORTED.(BAD)

No year car told no country told, so no manuals for it , lacking key facts.

1. check all fuses.
2. scan the PCM(TCM) see tranny errors.
3. google how to diagnose 5 decades (1973 up 4G engines) and read how to fix them all or learn to post year car and country.
4. top cause, modern cars, box is bad, pump weak , pump reg bad, seals leak inside, solenoids, bad or pressure reg solenoid bad or bad 1st gear clutch pack. and more, even bad gear selector cable. PRNDL , D and L are farther so , cable may not reach D or L. good luck find this with weak posts of missing key facts.

Iam getting error 92 ETV MTR FB and my car is producing a laughing sound when i press brake pad.