The creased one has to be hammered out some and filled. The other can be popped out as long as it is not next to the crease. It may need filled some also.
Hard to diagnose system without full manifold set. A restricted orifice tube can act as you describe, and debris from the wrecked condenser could have gotten to the orifice.
You have several problems I looked up the codes in the database
U0414 means invalid data received from four wheel drive clutch control module
P0118 engine coolant temp circuit high input
P260f evaporative system monitoring processor performance
I believe the overheating is caused by a bad relay. The p0118 code is not for the sensor it is for the circuit. Check the relays for the fans in the fuse box in engine compartment
With all these codes you need a professional to help fix this, you will likely throw parts at it and still not fix it. If you do want to try a repair at very least go on eBay and try and find a used factory repair manual set. If you google each code the explanation of the code will show, but it will only give you a system of the car, that means it can be a sensor or a part or the wiring or the computer that runs the system. Good luck
You are sure the car is overheating and have had it verified? Do not drive this take it to a shop right away, if you do have an overheating condition and you drive it you will soon have a fried $5000.00 engine and that will make the car a boat anchor.
The reason that you drive and engine cools down is that cool wind is blowing in the grille in front of the car and when you stop, that natural wind stops cooling it down.
First check the fan fuse. If it is OK check the fan itself: just apply wires on the connector of the fan and attache it to the battery (dont mix "+" and "-") If fan will not start, replace the fan motor. If it starts check for the Fan Motor Relay
Try locking and unlocking the doors with the key fob to see if it corrects the problem. You can also try using the key and locking and unlocking the drivers door only
are the heater hoses connected ?? does it have a electric motorised solonoid to open the hearter hose feed ,Sorry never seen one of these vehicles so i do not know the build/layout of components on this vehicle ,with my head in the engine bay i soon see the problem but just never seen on to know .
Aftermarket remotes don't last to long. Good ones, about 7 years. I have never put one in, But have taken hundreds of them out. Eventually your remote will die completely and won't let you start the vehicle with the key.
push key switch in hard to start 2nd time (3 reports) ... Our next step is to replace the lock housing assembly or the ignition lock cylinder. ... The ignition switch on my 2008 Ford Escape randomly turns over -- apparently when it feels like it.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bv8tDCf83Vc
Jan 28, 2014 - Uploaded by mosaitogo
Sometimes vehicle would not start when crank/start pos. ...having to push in on the key because the tip of rod is jumping out of switch . .... I currently have my ignition switch dangling down, and I just manually turn it with a screw driver .... Thanks I had this issue since last year with My Ford Escape 2008 but ...
