20 Most Recent 2009 Dodge Caliber - Page 6 Questions & Answers

its located on A/C unit , behind dashboard

perform a front end lube job, if the problem persists, have the ball joints and/or rack and pinion or tie rod ends checked.

check your horn fuse, could be the culprit.

read the fault codes to determine what put the engine light on regardless there will be codes and it just takes an experienced technician with the right connections to read them next check the cat converter as it may be failed and blocking the exhaust system

When some error codes are displayed the computer puts the car into limp mode - this restricts the speed of the car so you can get home or to a repair shop - you should not drive it now until the problem is solved to avoid any further damage. You may just have a faulty camshaft position sensor on one bank or maybe the timing belt may have jumped a cog and require replacement. Code readers are very reliable - the code readers only displays the fault information that is sent from the computer - this tells the mechanic the exact fault or gives them a good starting point to diagnose the problem. Sometimes resetting the fault codes in the computer with the code reader will fix the problem (it may have just been an incorrect fault indication) - if not - it will default again which confirms the fault and you will need to fix the problem.

you are right in that oil does deteriorate and needs changing every so often and yes it is quite expensive because it is a special oil designed specifically for cv transmissions and is not the oil used in automatic transmissions remembering that some cv transmissions run rubber and steel belts and others run link belt chains make sure that the oil you use is specific to that transmission or it will fail in side 20,000 klms as for the quantity when you are removing the pan and collecting it , that amount will give you a starting point and it will be close to the 4 quarts

Check your fuse if you haven't already. Water probably shorted a circuit and the fuse blew.

The popping could be from a bad CV axle joint, or a bad wheel bearing. Better get checked, sounds very worn. Raise the wheel on a jack and watch for play. Grab wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock, and shake back and forth-watch for play. Wheel bearing? CV joint -is boot still good? Ball joints at bottom of wheel attaching point to the control arm-check this for play, too.

You need the computer engine control system scanned for fault code.

The rear defrost has a built in timer in the switch, they can fail and cause this kind of problem.

You should be able to without having to reprogram. Just keep in mind that the vehicle is in the junkyard for a reason and hopefully not a transmission problem.

Check your position on your ignition switch. The key might not be in the off position. Which kills the battery.

that motor is controlled by a relay and a fuse that works together with air condition system.