Mitsubishi Cars & Trucks - Page 8 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Unfortunately there is no way to do that. The security system and engine immobilizer is there to stop exactly what you are trying to do, drive the car without the correct credentials. All this is controlled by two computers, a module and various sensors. The trick is to get a new key when you lost key number 2 and was left with only one key left. Now you need the dealership or an auto-locksmith. And by the sounds of it, a friend or a taxi. Good luck with your daughter.

does not matter cores have no POLARITY ever. some rare cars have heater hose VALVE. there, but most do not. the core is only a radiator (liquid to air heat exhanger)with 2 pipes it's all just pipe inside core and fins no magic at all. yes one hose is out and other is Input but the core does no care. it only needs max flow. yes the service manual covers this.(path day 1 new) yes. if using oEM hoses preformed ,any generic car water hose works (auto stoles off a hose reel there) the preformed hoses is he only reason to worry order here. I can see your old car and what is there 34years later. and LOOKING IS Every Thing doing car repairs. says the blind.

no year TOLD AT ALL 2001 TO NOW, 22 YEARS MADE WE CAN NOT GUESS ENGINE OR TRANSMISSION OR YEARS. THE VIN CODE ALSO TELLS YEAR AND ENGINE,. iHAVE SEEN ALL FAILURES AND FIXED THEM ALL ! FOR AGE/WEAR CAUSES OR RACING BOTH. i CAN ONLY ASSUME WHAT WAS DONE.; NEW FULL CLUTCH KIT, PP, DISK,THRO/OUT BEARING, PILOT BEARING, SLAVE AND A NEW CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER? no? forgot MC did you>? YOU DO KNOW THAT MC AND SLAVE BOTH WANT TO FAIL TOGETHER, (CORROSION INSIDE) AND BLEEDING IS HARD, BUBBLES FLOAT UP AS BLEED.HAPPENS( a small war here) AND GRAVITY BLEED HERE IS HOPELESS. sorry. TOP END PRESSURE BLEEDING WINS. OR LOTS OF WORK DOING IT WRONG.(the lines are up HILL and bubbles float up)_ VACUUM BLEED CAN WORK IF HAND PUMP IS AGGRESSIVE. meet MASTER cyclinder MC> EVER SEE OWN ANY MC CAN FAILs.'? 1st things.1st. (ive also seen pedals cracked so bad up top MC does not move.) looking at it is the cure here. easy as pie. THE PEDAL TO REAR OF MC, MUST HAVE GAP CLEARANCE OR THE MC CAN NOT RECHARGE ON THE UP STROKE. the MC bore has recharge port that must not be blocked, pedal up. NOW LEARN MC GUTS INSIDE THERE ARE 2 SEALS OR MORE. ONE OUTSIDE STOPS LEAKS, THEN 1 OR 2 INSIDE, ALLOWS IT TO PUMP AND MAKE PRESSURE, IF THIS INSIDE SEAL FAILS (UNSEEN BY HUMANS LACKING SUPERMAN XRAY VISION) THE MC IS 100%^ USELESS PUT IN A NEW MC, AND SLAVE WAYWAY BEFORE THE MAIN CLUTCH, TRANNY PULLED. REAR OF FIRE WALL LEAKING FLUID AT MC/? SEE SEAL ON PISTON , CENTER HERE IT IS BAD. SEEN HERE JUST ABOVE FIXING NUT. https://www.howacarworks.com/illustrations/clutch-master-cylinder see my drawing seal 7 fails MC is 100% dead blue arrow right some free play must be there. purple arrow left is the charge port, if block MC is dead. if no free play charge port is dead. this is 1st things 1st rules. or the whole system goes dead. the rear seal here 9 only stop leaks down both sides of the fire wall. I got this from Superman , (xray vision) or the spring 4, rusted to nothing but dust (iron oxide)

the dash lamp marked SECURITY IS DEAD all the time.keyon and off? fuse #2 missing,(security fuse)? remove the remote battery so the bad buttons in FOB do not trip the alarm I',m sure you mean factory alarm is in the car. in USA we can scan the OBD2 port and see why any alarm tripped. lots of ways there are, door switches, etc. lost the users manual tell you on most cars the alarm need be enabled. and how. most say , open the door with good fob. then do not lock the door using fob and alarm is not active. but with a dead fob how? (car came new with 2 fobs) lost 2nd? my answers are for USA spec cars only, not world wide. ever. doors with keyless entry system is what they call this. fob locks. simple have you examined the whole car for wiriing harness hacks that put in any kind of 1000 aftermarket alarms here, this is first. is the horn honking? the same horn the steering well uses or some other horn hacked in to car. ( we inspect all this first) the factory ETACS as its own fob RECEIVE inside (antanna) there are 3 fuses to ETACS. fuse 22 do not pull that it kills vast other things too. Fuse 2 and fuse 15 goes there but not sure what happens pulled but seems the interior door lock buttons go dead. doing that.. here is my only cure. pull the battery NEG lug for 1hour, or more even overnight see if ETACS , resets (well it sure will) but do so and not go into alarm and first remove the FOB battery (on all fobs for this car) see fob guts below 1 coin cell there , remove it, now bad buttons do not cause system to fail. open doors only with metal key. all instructions for this car assume the below is not bad. and buttons love to fail even SHORTED.(BAD)

well do the tests if #3 and 11 fail do not crank then over willlynilly(sic) (CHECK ALL FUSES FIRST) AND SCAN PCM FOR DTC ERRORS.

1. cranks ok and fast but will not start or stalls in 10sec.
2. IMMO lamp on dash no happy: immobilized? oop LOOK
3. 2.,4L has cam timing belt and is now failed. 60-100k miles.does. (can not be ignored this) a #1 service POINT !!!
4. spark is bad. on all 4 cyl, plugs bad or cop boots a wreck this old, AIR FILTER PACKED UP?
5. fuel pressure low, FPR bad ON RAIL. or pumpl
6. bad fuel>?
7. INJECTORs PACKED, (DO THE PRESSURE BALANCE TEST PER THE SERVICE MANUAL?
8. NO starts have 50 + engine and EFI causes,we do tests to find them al uses tool, meters, gauges and skills
9. 123, 1: engine bad, 2: spark bad, 3 fueling wrong
10. ask how, each test is well known, for 100 years, most key tests are. compression,vacuum , timing lamp to test spark., fuel pressure gauge, voltmeter and a scan tool. so we dont need to gue$$.
11. warning #1, the 2.4L is DOHC (twin cam) and is and listed interference engine so that means we check the belt first step3 above, or huge risk of bent head poppet valves ensues. A full belt condition (x2) belts and timing of cam NOT OFF is done. a the get go,
12. I do not know history of any car nor parts already replaced, so do not get in a huff if my post is too inclusive. (all ways to fail)
13. I will never post the 50 ways,here, here is 2 more (cam cracked, or 1 valve stuck open. and vacuum a wreck bouncing) ok more CAT melted, or EGR stuck open, map or maf dead. FULL STOP see engines and EFI are not simple.

Reconnect the wires and set the vehicle timer to zero or why not take out the bulb.

Check overdrive relay. Its far left front in the glove compatmet.Its not going into overdrive. I had same issue went to left side of gearbox located od slonoid and rewired it.

There is more than one fuse box and relay box in the engine bay. Try this webpage. your looking at relays 26 and 27. https://knigaproavto.ru/shemy/en/mitsubishi/montero/1252-pajero-3-fuses.html

If you could do it another way, why didn't dealer tell you that?

A carburetor rebuild is a big job for someone who's never done it. The only thing you can do yourself is to buy a rebuilt carb and install it.

dealer with vin and proof of ownership

Disconnect the battery: Before beginning any work on the electrical system of your vehicle, disconnect the battery to prevent accidental shocks or short circuits. Remove the steering column cover: The ignition switch is located on the steering column, so you'll need to remove the cover to access it. Depending on the exact model and trim level of your Montero Sport, the cover may be held in place with screws or clips. Remove the ignition switch: Once you have access to the ignition switch, you'll need to remove it from the steering column. This may involve removing any retaining screws or clips that are holding it in place, as well as disconnecting any electrical connectors. Install the new ignition switch: Install the new ignition switch in the reverse order of the previous steps, making sure that it is securely fastened to the steering column and that all electrical connections are properly connected. Test the new ignition switch: Once the new ignition switch is installed, reconnect the battery and test the switch to make sure that it is working properly. Insert the new key and try to start the engine. If the engine starts and the key can be turned smoothly, you've successfully replaced the ignition switch. It's worth noting that depending on the specific make and model of your Montero Sport, the exact steps for replacing the ignition switch may vary slightly

It sounds like you have already replaced the ECU and the turbo actuator but are still having issues with the engine management light. If you haven't already, it's important to check the wiring harness to ensure that all of the connections are secure. Additionally, it's also possible that the issue could be related to the fuel system, in which case you may need to inspect the fuel lines and check for any clogs or blockages. If you have access to an English wire diagram for your Mitsubishi Canter 13C Euro 5 2011, that might help you pinpoint the issue. Mitsubishi canter 13c euro 5 2011 engine management light on - Fixya https://www.fixya.com/cars/t29915400-mitsubishi_canter_13c_euro_5_2011_engineSprinter Van 11 Most Common Problems (2002-2020) ' San Diego https://www.sprinter.repair/11-common-sprinter-problemsSOLVED: How to reset oil light on Mitsubishi fuso fe160 ? - Fixya https://www.fixya.com/cars/t25327758-reset_oil_light_mitsubishi_fuso_fe160

Last year, my truck's engine had a low power problem as well. Eventually, it stopped working. We were lucky, though, that we were able to find used truck engines for sale and to get have it replaced. If you can't get yours up and running to a sufficient standard then you may want to do just that. It could be pretty dangerous to have a malfunctioning engine. http://www.boothilltruck.com/

Question edited to add maker and for typos. Question moved to model category. You swapped out a lot of components. Did you address the P0403 malfunction code? There is lots on it in this link. Also it could be a wiring issue to it. https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+Mitsubishi+Eclipse+P0403.. ..

Question edited for clarity and add maker. Question moved to model category. Limp Mode is activated for the most serious faults that can REALLY damage your engine catastrophically. It gives you the opportunity to limp to a garage. It can be reset with a pro grade scan tool which also tells you WHY Limp Mode was activated.

That will be your over float goes no where but down, there should be another hose that goes to the radiator.

CKP, the most reliable part on a car. no VIN or engine told. we can not guess engines no country told. no car in USA after 2001, so omg world wide so many engines.! sorry no can do , we cracked our crystal ball last year. why not RTM read the manual, oops not here. nor in Canada or USA below link. https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp if the scan tool did not say(DTC ) is bad, then it is NOT BAD. 99% of the replaced are good. china has 2010 are you there?

Venezuela 2010 1.6L

Philippines , no 2010

Indian production, no but was sold as lancer.

i give up, no country told nor engine there or VIN told the dealer will not talk to you lacking VIN , car not under their eyes, hood up. why ask here? wiki failed me, to find where you live, speaking English. from where IDK. one more HUNT FAILED again, as seen 1000000 here.

no year told or engine or country or VIN?????? 1983 to 2003 12 engines offered new . sorry I can not guess it the service manual covers all that by VIN buy it and read it. from maker. got rats eating wires, see it, with pack rats.

It is in the interior fuse panel. There are Two possible locations for the panel you need. One is in the Left end panel of the dashboard when the door is wide open and the second location is at knee height under the dashboard on the Drivers side. The 'Door Open', end panel setup is fuse 9, (10A). On the 'Knee High' Driver's side panel it is fuse 21, (20A). ALWAYS replace fuses with the same rating as the one you took out.