Mazda Protege - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Because of the battery light coming on, it sounds like you have a problem on the computer communications network. You need an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer to diagnose. It is very unlikely you need a new transmission. https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+Mazda+Protege+won%27t+shift+from+3rd+to+4th ..

maybe the fuel isn't going to the injectors. you have to do the bleeding. check the spark plugs.

Valves don't have a 'body' Misti. Do you mean the Camshaft Caps?

pump only runs cranked or engine running. (NORMAL) key on it can run pump for 1 seconds, this is called prime no single tech can run that fast to the pump. so key on 5 times to purge the air in the lines. so is spark good?, it must be good if the PC sees (detects) spark bad, it cuts feeling 100% dead, so car does not catch fire, by law. same as key on, pump is not on , key on after the prime pulse. 302 is cylinder misfire, reset it and it is gone. always check spark first. not fuel , fuel is last of the big 3.

• engine good
• spark good
• and if spark is good ,fuel tests is now allowed.

my guess is 1.6 L ZM-DE. this engine? aka Z6 16valves, DOHC. belt drive, gen 9 car. so 22 years old and running the cam belt way past 100kmeters odometer, wash wear repeats ever 100km for got that rule? if yes the belt slips and the CMP and CKP sensor fail for sync when SYNC fails inside the PCM it cuts spark and now bends over the head valve.s $$ super expensive fix that./ for $30 belt. so now you know why we check spark on all 4 spark plugs and not just 1 ever. took a bath i fuel ? just for lost spark??? (sad face) gasoline(petrol) cannot burn lacking spark this is no diesel. and injections of fuel on a no spark engine is a huge fire hazard for sure in any kind of crash. OK? that is how it all works pure PCM logic and laws making this happen, just like this. if spark was good and gas tank dry, the engine runs on sprayed test fuel instant start in a can runs for 3 seconds and stop repeat 3 time or more, see the engine sounds good and is. if fails this test, spark is gone or the cam timing why the heck off and is the main cause. Ignoring the belt is #1 cause. on all belt cam engines. vast.

Check or replace the relay for the fuel pump.

Question edited for clarity, spelling 'Mazda'. Question moved to sub category. You have a transmission issue, nothing to do with the engine running. You need a good mechanic with a scanner computer. https://www.google.com/search?q=1996+Mazda+Protege+service+manual ..

This engine uses the standard firing order for a cylinder engine. 1, 3, 4, 2, Where number One is the cylinder nearest the belts and pulleys on the engine.

P2009 means the intake manifold runner control circuit has excessively low voltage for bank 1. Inside the Air intake manifold there is a set of butterfly valves that adjust the air flow going into the engine when its running at different speeds. The Manifold Control Runner operates these valves. The ECU, (the cars brain), isn't getting the correct electrical signals from it. The runner control is usually mounted on the intake manifold but where it is will depend on the vehicle manufacturer and the engine you have fitted. Try this youtube video as a starting point. It will give you an idea of where it is and some quick checks you can do to test if it is just sticking in one position. These control units are normally not too expensive to buy if you needed to replace it. https://youtu.be/qfa-8dJPMQA

Usually it is a good idea to replace any of the belts if you have to take them off to do repairs. Belts aren't usually expensive to buy. A timing belt is a major service item on higher mileage engines, (60,000 to 100,000 miles), so replacing it is always worth doing.

Have you thrown a code? Are you certain that there isn't a problem with your fuel rail? It is usually location on the fuel rail. Hope that helps.

On the center console next the shifter there should be a small access cover about 1"inch square. remove the cover then press down on the switch and move the gear selector

https://www.aera.org/uploads/4/3/7/7/43776611/aera-torquespecs.pdf (page 82/124) https://www.2carpros.com/questions/head-bolt-torque-and-sequence-on-a-mazda-protege-16l-help

Usually in the back of vehicle, inside,behind a panel cover(close to rear bumper)

Sounds to me the hazard switch is the trouble.

You can try out some guide from here reliable-store they also provide live chat feature for instant help and it's very useful

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Chances are it's not the fuse. First, open the door and check in between the car body and the door where the hinges are. You should see a corrugated rubber tube, or baffling, and inside there will be a set of wires connecting the door electronics to the car. Check each wire for a crack as this is a very common reason, and the easiest to fix, for window failure. If it's broken, just reconnect it (you can use a quck connect but the best way is to solder and shrink tube). If the wires are fine, then the problem goes deeper. At this point you're left with either the window switch or a broken/disconnected window regulator. Both of these require a voltmeter and some door disassembly to diagnose. Good luck!

that looks like a compatibility issue check the user manual if u have it or get one from https://www.reliable-store.com/

Twist the bulbs back and forth to clean the contact surfaces on the ribbon in the dash...try it with the parking lights on....look for illumination............

30 amps, but there are other possible problems, you need to get with the local dealer to troubleshoot it. There is a resistor that fails in the switch.