Lincoln Cars & Trucks - Page 5 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t7468_ds782699

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBzbNIs6yTQ

This is a question Instead of an answer, which is I need explicit steps on how to remove mark viii PCM. can anyone help me with this.

Shown here for a 1993. https://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?p=355263 More here https://www.google.com/search?q=1962+Lincoln+Continental+A%2FC+vacuum+diagram ..

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. 2 duplicate question deleted. Refresh page to see your question.

How do i perform the 2002 Lincoln LS anti theft reset?

Vehicle History https://www.vehiclehistory.com > questions > how-do-... 2 answers To restore the 2002 Lincoln LS anti-theft system, You will start by Pressing and holding any button on Your remote within 20 seconds of the eighth turn. More here https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+Lincoln+LS+turn+off+alarm ..

Where is the computer located on a Lincoln navagtor

NO JOB TOLD AT ALL (WHY ASK?) OXY SENSORS CONFUSING? B2S1 FAILING, <<< THIS OR TIMING A CAM SHAFT? misfire codes? P0302? bank 2 is the other bank ,where #1 cylinder bank 1, IS NOT, located but I guess you do not know here #1 SPARK PLUG is.?????? well on all V engines number 1 is offset most forward bank.(MEANS closer to the crank pulley) 3.7L Duratec (227kW/301PS) order is 1-4-2-5-3-6 FACING THE CRANK DAMPER PULLEY #1 LEFT FRONT BANK SO #2 IS RIGHT. https://youtu.be/xHOx0prn5fM HOW IS THIS BELOW 3.7 transmission on right. hood up facing engine spark plug 5 is center of the 3 cop coils bank 2 facing it 4,5,6(bank 2) far side 1,2,3 (bank1)

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It sounds like your AC unit could be overheating or even damaged.AC units have a sensor that will turn them off automatically to prevent damage from overheating. If there is an insufficient amount of air flow, the unit will heat up, and then eventually turn off.When the car is moving, more air is forced over the unit, likely keeping it cool enough to run, however, when the car come to a stop, it loses that air flow, and quickly heats up. Thus, the AC would work while the vehicle is in motion, and overheat and stop when the car is stopped and idling.However, the AC unit could be completely blown. The cold air while moving could be just a case of air being forced into the car. Think of a house fan, the fast the wind blows on you, the cooler it gets.... Thus, it could be an illusion that the AC is working when car is in motion, when it really isn't.Hope this helps.

The electronics and modules will tell the reason. It sounds like a computer network issue. You need a mobile auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer. https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto+electrician+near+me ..

It is usually located under the driver's side of the dash, and is wired in-line with the turn signal lever and hazard switch buttons. When the turn signals or hazard lights are turned on, the circuit's power is routed through the flasher, which only emits short bursts of power that cause the lights to flash.

USA car or NOT, ?????????? what engine? with or with out electronics temp control options I can't see the dash to go ahhhhhhhhhh EATC for sure has named bend door. fuse are first are they all good>?/ below 120f coolant the blower is taken off line. well there are only 2 causes. one under the hood, engine not hot,. thermostat bad. two, cam dampers failing. or heater core clogged up. inside. a tech does simple tests to see which end of car fails even a finger,test. to the 2 tubes passing the fire wall to the heater core. (ouch,ouch) test tube,1 and 2, are 180f to 220f hot that is good test for engine bay good and the core is not clogged if hot /cold is fingered, that is clogged up core. the first question that pops to mind also is does the cab core have hot water valve. most cars now do not. i just look at the 2 heater core tubes for water valve and even cable drive or vacuum drive to it. there is vacuum servo called heater door actuator or has below EATC here it is and if dead and stuck in blend cold ,heat ends what I do is 2 things, (working cab side) core tubs both hot 180f UP i watch all damper doors, actions in all modes. 3 or more. if say blend door is dead, i move it by hand, some even wire (bailing)wire it to hot and drive all winter. until spring and fix it then. yes one has vacuum blend door and yes other model has gear/motor actuator EATC blend door servo./ what you, nobody knows but id pull off all lower panels to the dash and look first sure whole if core is hot, 2 tubes, sure would

Gary, check here.... https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2012_Lincoln_MKT_3.7L_V6/lights/center_brake_light

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Limited help in the link. https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644&sxsrf=APwXEddY65som5VrGdeLPGQPtjtCnfn2mw:1686886144769&q=2017+Lincoln+MKC+Camshaft+position+sensor+location&nirf=2017+Lincoln+MKC+Crankshaft+position+sensor+location ..

so my guess is want Ac COLD ARE OR JUST THE MODE ACTUATORS FAILING there is A manual AC system and Climate controls sys. the are not the same. I guess AC wanted, the blend door stuck open is wrong, if stuck open thee will be no cold. the blend door closed and blocks the heater core 100% if max AC cold is selected. and recirc mode too is needed a tiger by the tail, this VACUUM controls monster. we only can fix them in a shop with a vacuum hand pump with vac gauge, and the service manual to ID hose colors guessing is not easy here there are 2 blend doors, left and right to fail. blend is electric so this 2001 system is hybrid of elect + vac controls air inlet it vacuum servo. left and right mode actuator is electric motor drive. frost defrost is VACUUM servo drive./ the service manual has vacuum logic table matric showing all vacuum status, V or NV for each mode and manual system is not like CliaMATE CONTROL manual controls, I can not publish the whole HVAC chapter here. 17= heater core 6,= evapcore (cold) 11 is blower 16 is vac controls. dash 13 is engine vacuum, intake man, 20"hg at idle.

no problem told to help any WILD BLIND HUNTs gee and engine can have 3 temp sensor for coolant and 1 for air and 1 inside the transmission(not 1969) back then, no computers (a joy) one is just for dash coolant meter. one for AC overheat. no engine told ahh is 460 cu in (7.5 L) V8 (385 family) on most that old the sensor on the engine, near coolant path has only 1 wire. brass color, and tiny threaded terminal x1 not 1 wire sensor on side of block, for oil the huge clue is 1 wire. sensor and the oil see rear top of engine ,?

ck here... https://www.google.com/search?q=Ac+lines+for+a+2000+LS+Lincoln+v6+3.0&newwindow=1&sxsrf=APwXEddCg0HQF91r0kdw2e9V2PhDp_RLww%3A1685805148348&source=hp&ei=XFh7ZNGcEsHn0PEPhoSf4AQ&iflsig=AOEireoAAAAAZHtmbGoPc0j-xflXXsV3HXjuOrOuG1V0&ved=0ahUKEwjRupnIsaf_AhXBMzQIHQbCB0wQ4dUDCAo&uact=5&oq=Ac+lines+for+a+2000+LS+Lincoln+v6+3.0&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAMyBQgAEKIEMgUIABCiBDIFCAAQogRQAFgAYPApaABwAHgAgAHEA4gBxAOSAQM0LTGYAQCgAQKgAQE&sclient=gws-wiz

Panel should pop off when gently pried.

Ck the posts here.... https://lincolnforums.com/forums/threads/continental-battery-drain-check.37502/

Some vehicles need to be reset after a fail safe issue has been repaired. This is commonly done using an OBD diagnostic tool. If you have to pay for this ask at 4 or 5 different places as prices can be VERY different.