Lincoln Mark VIII - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

under the car at rear near gas tank, round can shaped filter.

This is a question Instead of an answer, which is I need explicit steps on how to remove mark viii PCM. can anyone help me with this.

USA car or NOT, ?????????? what engine? with or with out electronics temp control options I can't see the dash to go ahhhhhhhhhh EATC for sure has named bend door. fuse are first are they all good>?/ below 120f coolant the blower is taken off line. well there are only 2 causes. one under the hood, engine not hot,. thermostat bad. two, cam dampers failing. or heater core clogged up. inside. a tech does simple tests to see which end of car fails even a finger,test. to the 2 tubes passing the fire wall to the heater core. (ouch,ouch) test tube,1 and 2, are 180f to 220f hot that is good test for engine bay good and the core is not clogged if hot /cold is fingered, that is clogged up core. the first question that pops to mind also is does the cab core have hot water valve. most cars now do not. i just look at the 2 heater core tubes for water valve and even cable drive or vacuum drive to it. there is vacuum servo called heater door actuator or has below EATC here it is and if dead and stuck in blend cold ,heat ends what I do is 2 things, (working cab side) core tubs both hot 180f UP i watch all damper doors, actions in all modes. 3 or more. if say blend door is dead, i move it by hand, some even wire (bailing)wire it to hot and drive all winter. until spring and fix it then. yes one has vacuum blend door and yes other model has gear/motor actuator EATC blend door servo./ what you, nobody knows but id pull off all lower panels to the dash and look first sure whole if core is hot, 2 tubes, sure would

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category, (wrong year). answered here https://www.fixya.com/cars/t14487716-fuel_filter_location_1993_lincoln_mark https://www.google.com/search?q=1994+Lincoln+Mark+VIII.+Location+of+the+fuel+filter INSIDE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE INNER WHEEL WELL ..

Question edited for clarity, and spelling of Maker and Roman Numerals for 8, VIII, not v111. Question moved to model category. A quick bit of research says is is likely to be a fault with the door lock module, especially as your father said not to lock it. https://repairpal.com/reset-my-anti-theft-system-in-a-98-lincoln-mark-8-481 http://www.lincolnsonline.com/forum/showthread.php?p=953772 https://www.google.com/search?q=1994+Lincoln+Mark+VIII+reset+security You need a mobile auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer to diagnose which part is at fault. He may be able to just reprogram it. You can't fix that system by guesswork and the Ford anti theft system is very complicated. https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto+electrician+near+me ..

not enough info are turn signals working and brake lights possible fuse or bad ground

Slide the tube nut wrench over the brake line to the master cylinder connection. The master cylinder is normally on the driver's side of the engine bay and mounted on the firewall. Orient the wrench so that it fits over the tube nut on the end of the brake line.

2Disconnect the brake line. Turn the nut counterclockwise to remove. Note the location of each brake line. There are four lines total, and they need to be put back in the same location when reinstalling the lines. You may want to mark them with masking tape and permanent marker.

3Unplug the master cylinder cap electrical plug.

4Remove the brake master cylinder to brake booster bolts with a socket wrench.

5Back the master cylinder off the brake booster.

6Unbolt the bolts holding the brake booster to the firewall on your vehicle.

7Pull the cotter pin out of the brake pedal to brake booster connecting pin with a pair of pliers. This is done inside the vehicle down in the driver side foot well.

8Pull the brake pedal to brake booster connecting pin out to disconnect the brake pedal from the brake booster connecting arm.

9Mark and remove the vacuum hoses on the brake booster and slide the booster off the firewall.

10Install the new brake booster. Installation is the reverse of removal

It sounds like a wire was pinched or severed in there. You have a dead short to ground. You need a good local auto electrician. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me ..

Why guess. Use a scanner to see what is happening. Could be a pressure problem.

Replace transmission filter and fluid. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE FILTER. 11 IN LBS MAX. FAILURE TO DO THIS WILL RESULT IN TRANSMISSION NOT SHIFTING IN THE VALUE BODY.

Check your fluid level but I think the transmission clutches are burn or your forward clutch band May be broken see a transmission technician

Check your power to your fuel pump. Put your ear to the filler for the gas and get someone to turn on the key, do not crank.. You should here the fuel pump cut on. If not suspect pump problem. You can also take the lin loose at the fuel filter and check to see if gas comes out after key is turned on and work your way to the engine if you get gas there just follow the lines.

If you're sure the engine is running cool enough check the fuel pressure, low fuel pressure can vapor lock if the engine is hot enough the gas will boil. The boiling point of 87 octane is 181 degrees Fahrenheit although gas is constantly being returned to the tank in order to cool the fuel rail low pressure will not return enough leaving room in the rail for gas to boil. Ignition coils are also known to break down when hot. I hope this helps. Take care.

I have a 94 Lincoln Mark 8 I bought it at an estate sale and drove it the first week I had it and then I getting in the anti-theft light blinking and it won't crank

Some fixya user told me a website reliablestore it is very good.. I used it to repair my shredder it had some spark issue which wasn't easily fixed. you can go there and try

You have bad backup switch,and for the truck lid you ave bad contact on the switch,all the best.

The knocking can be from #5 cylinder which should be the front cylinder on the drivers side.
You should disconnect the negative battery cable for 10 minutes and see if the reader says the same thing after you restart the car.

If it does not cure the problem, it could be the coil pak for #5. The last thing would be a dirty or bad injector for #5. Hopefully the reader will show you fixed it.

The knock you refer to can easily be a balljoint or tierod end. If you are due for a frontend alignment those are parts which will be checked before an alignment can be done.

one thing you can try is to take out the fuse for the door ajar button . this will take it off for sure. you can even try putting it back to see if it may reset

most caps are pressure release if you drill in it , might not release when needed. in hot weather. soke with super pup lightly tap on cap. use plairs or socket to loosen. one other way to do this is to put a tee in a heater holes, with clamps. be sure to put it on the highest point of line. if cross over tube can be changed , change it. if it has a sensor in it try removing the sensor to fill.

Look under the fuse cover or your owners manual