Lincoln Mark VIII - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 9

Download a free owners manual & read that section Need the keys you get from a dealers parts dept They are about $25.00 ea

I'm assuming the problem is the blower motor isn't coming on or working. 1st, check the fuse. 2nd, remove the glove box or pull the 2 tabs that act like stops when it's open ( the glove box will open out further) and you'll see the power plug connector for the blower unit. Turn on the blower through the climate control (heat, A/C, or whatever) and wiggle the connector to see if the blower turns on. If starts working, then an easy solution is pull the connector off and gently press the prongs together or inward. Then carefully reconnect with damaging the prongs. This worked for 96 Mark VIII due to the fact the prongs were not "seating" correctly in the female connector. It's been about 2 years since I did this and the connection is still good. If wiggling the plug doesn't work, pull the plug, turn on the climate control (heat, A/C), and check for voltage to the plug. That's about all I can help with.

MERCON VTransmissions have only used one type fluid,what is recommended in the owners manual& on the dip stick & bottom of the trans panThe Fluid has absolutely nothing do with a worntransmission or internal problems or electronic issueThe wrong fluid can ruin the clutchesI once owned a trans shopYour transmission is probably due for a rebuildIf you fail to change the fluid every 3 years--since the car wasnew-- it will fail, I can attest to thatIf you change fluid, as you were told ,on a worn trans that is notworking correctly & yours is not,it may actually slip & not be ableto use it at all

That is usually a sign that your alternator is failing to recharge the battery. Take the car to a reputable mechanic and have the charging system tested. It could be something else causing the battery to drain but most of the time it is the alternator.

Have someone help you turn the key to on position.. not start.. just to on and listen from under the rear of the car for the fuel pump.. but first make sure the fuse and relay are both good before replacing a fuel pump. Good luck.

Remove mirror mount cover assembly. Remove inside door handle cup (22634). Remove door lock control bezel. Remove window control bezel. Remove interior lamp lens. Remove screw from interior lamp assembly body. Remove screw from window control bezel opening. Disconnect mirror, lock switches and memory seat on driver side from bezels and wire harness. Disconnect window switches from window bezel and wire harness. Lift front door trim panel (23942) vertically, out of weatherstrip and over lock rod. Disconnect interior lamp (13776) from wire harness. Remove front and rear door trim retention hooks into door inner panel. To install, reverse Removal procedure, paying special attention when inserting inner door trim into weatherstrip. Rock inner door trim into weatherstrip and push downward until lower trim belt character ditch lines up with score mark on inner door panel.

It is only necessary to post your question ONCE.

Consistent with the AIR PUMP warning code you saw, I am 75% certain that you have at least one clogged catalytic converter. If not a catalytic converter, some other exhaust system obstruction.

Wires on wrong ? Fuel Pump Failing & not holding pressure in the fuel rail when it sits?

You might have a bad wire. If it was both tail lights, could be your tail lamp fuse or brake switch.

each headlight sits in its own bezel and is independently adjustable

There is no switch. The system is automatic.

its located in the trunk on the passenger side I think if not the drivers side

has the water pump been changed recently? The water pump on a 4.6L 2v and 4.6L 4v look the same but are different

Go to a Lincoln dealership with a parts department. They have all the diagrams to help you and even make sure you have the right parts. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/scott_843b43f7ebebd3f5

You need to find an honest Joe!! My first thought is get the rad checked. Any good mech would know how. It should be hot at the top half and cooler below, but even spread across the whole rad. You don't say if its forcing water from the header tank? If it is then its possible a head gasket has gone. If its been maintained but the coolant hasn't been flushed and replaced every 2 years then its likely the main rad is partially blocked. There is no ready cure for this despite a lot of additives and theories, the only sure way is to replace the rad. Is there no good DIY neighbour who could help? I understand your fears about some dealers but if in doubt take your DIY neighbour with you so they will behave.